Today would use Certified or Randolph's non-tautening nitrate or even butyrate. >>
Last I heard, Orsovia Devo's (prolly misspelled)Violet Dream Microfilm is still available, and experienced builders report is good. Should be a scan of some of his literature here in our Files Section. Everything else I read about is "almost right."
MB
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, hermann andresen <hermanna@...> wrote:
>
>
> Wrinkling, especially around edges, is normal as solvent evaporates.
>
> White sounds like blushing of the lacquer base. Usually a result of high humidity & aggravated by slow thinner.
>
> Thinner compromises film properties, causes pinholing etc. Storing the solution in freezer slows the curing & gives it time to spread out prior to setting up without need of thinner.
>
> Was in grammar school when I built an Atwood C stick (prior to Pete Andrews 30min). Film was poured in bathtub with wire hoop in bottom. Total disaster. Clear nitrate w/castor or TCP was most common, tho an old timer demonstrated an eyther/collodian mixture.
>
> Had enuf fun w/DIY film in my youth. Today would use Certified or Randolph's non-tautening nitrate or even butyrate.
>
> H
>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> From: wdgowen_at_...
> Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 16:45:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Is it normal for film to wrinkle after pouring? Is it
> normal for it to turn white while drying?
>
> If either answer is "no" then what would prevent
> those things from happening?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> Tom
> Iacobellis
> To: indoor_construction_at_yahoogroups.com
>
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 4:27
> PM
> Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction] Re:
> micro film making
>
>
>
> I've been pouring and building with micro film for over 25 years now. I've
> learned a few things. I mentioned thinner in a half hearted way in
> response to Bill's goofy PVC glue film, because in all seriousness, if I make
> a pour and I find the film is too thick(pale green-pale red), which by the way
> we used to use on props, or between news paper for patch
> film, then I thin the mixture with Laqueur thinner, or Dope thinner,
> to get the viscosity I need to pull off blue/gold sheets. I don't bother
> with all silver or all gold sheets any more because they are just too
> thin and the weight savings is negligible. Be careful when adding thinner, if
> you add too much at once, you'll make the solution too thin and you wont be
> able to lift a single sheet. Store "Mike" solution in tightly sealed
> glass jars, metal cans rust, and plastic bottles respire moisture. Micro film
> is a pain in the ass to make,store, and build with, but when it is up
> there flying, and the sun light is refracting its colors it is
> spectacular. It is the true essence of indoor. Iaco
>
>
>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> From:
> wdgowen_at_...
> Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 13:24:24 -0400
> Subject: Re:
> [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
>
>
>
>
>
> I don't know what effect thinner would have but I will
> try it and see.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom
> Iacobellis
> To: indoor_construction_at_yahoogroups.com
>
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 12:44
> PM
> Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction]
> Re: micro film making
>
>
>
> Hi Bill, I wonder if you'd get something quite good if you could thin it
> enough before you pour. Tom I.
>
>
>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> From:
> wdgowen_at_...
> Date: Thu,
> 5 Aug 2010 11:56:59 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re:
> micro film making
>
>
>
>
>
> I made some mega-film a couple of days ago. I poured
> some PVC pipe cement onto water. The resulting film was extremely strong -
> but it weighed 3mg per square inch. With this stuff you could make an EZB
> wing and stab that weighed .24g if you left out all the wood.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RLBailey_at_...
>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
>
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 6:11
> AM
> Subject: Re:
> [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
>
>
>
>
> I advise you to buy some proprietary film (advertised as such). Clear
> shrinking dope may work but I would bet against it. I used a small can
> which held 35 mm photographic film with a hole about 3 mm dia in the side
> at the bottom. Pour the film from the can, holding the can a few cm above
> the water surface.To make film large enough for eg F1D you will need a
> tank about 1 x 1.5m with a depth of about 3 - 4 cm. That amount of water
> will weigh 50 kg or more.
> Bob
>
>
> On Aug 4 2010, gert-jan
> wrote:
>
> oke thats the way to do it .
> that nitrate aircraft dope
> is the same as what we call (spanlak )Clear Shrinking Dope?
> or how do I
> create this?
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com,
> Fred Bare wrote:
> >
> > The making of the covering material
> is called Microfilm. A shallow tank of water is allowed to
> "cure"- for 12 or more hours allowing volatile chemicals to escape.
> The ideal water temperature is between 68 to 74 degrees F. The
> microfilm based on nitrate aircraft dope with plasticizers
> added. Adjust the fornula to get the film you would like.
> A small amount of the solution is poured out onto the surface of the
> water in one smooth, extended linear motion.. The solution spreads
> out on the surface of the water to a nearly mono molecular
> thickness. It is allowed to "set" on the water's surface for several
> minutes.
> >
> >
>
> >
>
Received on Sat Aug 07 2010 - 10:55:12 CEST
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:46 CET