RE: Re: micro film making from hermann andresen on 2010-08-07 ([Indoor

From: hermann andresen <hermanna_at_hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 07:33:02 +0000

Wrinkling, especially around edges, is normal as solvent evaporates.

White sounds like blushing of the lacquer base. Usually a result of high humidity & aggravated by slow thinner.

Thinner compromises film properties, causes pinholing etc. Storing the solution in freezer slows the curing & gives it time to spread out prior to setting up without need of thinner.

Was in grammar school when I built an Atwood C stick (prior to Pete Andrews 30min). Film was poured in bathtub with wire hoop in bottom. Total disaster. Clear nitrate w/castor or TCP was most common, tho an old timer demonstrated an eyther/collodian mixture.

Had enuf fun w/DIY film in my youth. Today would use Certified or Randolph's non-tautening nitrate or even butyrate.

H

To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From: wdgowen_at_gmail.com
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 16:45:46 -0400
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making








Is it normal for film to wrinkle after pouring? Is it
normal for it to turn white while drying?

If either answer is "no" then what would prevent
those things from happening?

  ----- Original Message -----
  From:
  Tom
  Iacobellis
  To: indoor_construction_at_yahoogroups.com

  Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 4:27
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction] Re:
  micro film making



  I've been pouring and building with micro film for over 25 years now. I've
  learned a few things. I mentioned thinner in a half hearted way in
  response to Bill's goofy PVC glue film, because in all seriousness, if I make
  a pour and I find the film is too thick(pale green-pale red), which by the way
  we used to use on props, or between news paper for patch
  film, then I thin the mixture with Laqueur thinner, or Dope thinner,
  to get the viscosity I need to pull off blue/gold sheets. I don't bother
  with all silver or all gold sheets any more because they are just too
  thin and the weight savings is negligible. Be careful when adding thinner, if
  you add too much at once, you'll make the solution too thin and you wont be
  able to lift a single sheet. Store "Mike" solution in tightly sealed
  glass jars, metal cans rust, and plastic bottles respire moisture. Micro film
  is a pain in the ass to make,store, and build with, but when it is up
  there flying, and the sun light is refracting its colors it is
  spectacular. It is the true essence of indoor. Iaco


  To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From:
  wdgowen_at_gmail.com
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 13:24:24 -0400
Subject: Re:
  [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making





  I don't know what effect thinner would have but I will
  try it and see.


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Tom
    Iacobellis
    To: indoor_construction_at_yahoogroups.com

    Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 12:44
    PM
    Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction]
    Re: micro film making



    Hi Bill, I wonder if you'd get something quite good if you could thin it
    enough before you pour. Tom I.


    To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From:
    wdgowen_at_gmail.com
Date: Thu,
    5 Aug 2010 11:56:59 -0400
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re:
    micro film making





    I made some mega-film a couple of days ago. I poured
    some PVC pipe cement onto water. The resulting film was extremely strong -
    but it weighed 3mg per square inch. With this stuff you could make an EZB
    wing and stab that weighed .24g if you left out all the wood.


      ----- Original Message -----
      From: RLBailey_at_care4free.net

      To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com

      Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 6:11
      AM
      Subject: Re:
      [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making




      I advise you to buy some proprietary film (advertised as such). Clear
      shrinking dope may work but I would bet against it. I used a small can
      which held 35 mm photographic film with a hole about 3 mm dia in the side
      at the bottom. Pour the film from the can, holding the can a few cm above
      the water surface.To make film large enough for eg F1D you will need a
      tank about 1 x 1.5m with a depth of about 3 - 4 cm. That amount of water
      will weigh 50 kg or more.
Bob

On Aug 4 2010, gert-jan
      wrote:

oke thats the way to do it .
that nitrate aircraft dope
      is the same as what we call (spanlak )Clear Shrinking Dope?
or how do I
      create this?

--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com,
      Fred Bare wrote:
>
> The making of the covering material
      is called Microfilm. A shallow tank of water is allowed to
      "cure"- for 12 or more hours allowing volatile chemicals to escape.
      The ideal water temperature is between 68 to 74 degrees F. The
      microfilm based on nitrate aircraft dope with plasticizers
      added. Adjust the fornula to get the film you would like.
       A small amount of the solution is poured out onto the surface of the
      water in one smooth, extended linear motion.. The solution spreads
      out on the surface of the water to a nearly mono molecular
      thickness. It is allowed to "set" on the water's surface for several
      minutes.
>
>

>













Received on Sat Aug 07 2010 - 00:33:05 CEST