Re: Re: micro film making
Thanks Hermann.
----- Original Message -----
From: hermann andresen
To: construction Indoor
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 3:33 AM
Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
Wrinkling, especially around edges, is normal as solvent evaporates.
White sounds like blushing of the lacquer base. Usually a result of high humidity & aggravated by slow thinner.
Thinner compromises film properties, causes pinholing etc. Storing the solution in freezer slows the curing & gives it time to spread out prior to setting up without need of thinner.
Was in grammar school when I built an Atwood C stick (prior to Pete Andrews 30min). Film was poured in bathtub with wire hoop in bottom. Total disaster. Clear nitrate w/castor or TCP was most common, tho an old timer demonstrated an eyther/collodian mixture.
Had enuf fun w/DIY film in my youth. Today would use Certified or Randolph's non-tautening nitrate or even butyrate.
H
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To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From: wdgowen_at_gmail.com
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 16:45:46 -0400
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
Is it normal for film to wrinkle after pouring? Is it normal for it to turn white while drying?
If either answer is "no" then what would prevent those things from happening?
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Iacobellis
To: indoor_construction_at_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 4:27 PM
Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
I've been pouring and building with micro film for over 25 years now. I've learned a few things. I mentioned thinner in a half hearted way in response to Bill's goofy PVC glue film, because in all seriousness, if I make a pour and I find the film is too thick(pale green-pale red), which by the way we used to use on props, or between news paper for patch film, then I thin the mixture with Laqueur thinner, or Dope thinner, to get the viscosity I need to pull off blue/gold sheets. I don't bother with all silver or all gold sheets any more because they are just too thin and the weight savings is negligible. Be careful when adding thinner, if you add too much at once, you'll make the solution too thin and you wont be able to lift a single sheet. Store "Mike" solution in tightly sealed glass jars, metal cans rust, and plastic bottles respire moisture. Micro film is a pain in the ass to make,store, and build with, but when it is up there flying, and the sun light is refracting its colors it is spectacular. It is the true essence of indoor. Iaco
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To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From: wdgowen_at_gmail.com
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 13:24:24 -0400
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
I don't know what effect thinner would have but I will try it and see.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Iacobellis
To: indoor_construction_at_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
Hi Bill, I wonder if you'd get something quite good if you could thin it enough before you pour. Tom I.
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To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From: wdgowen_at_gmail.com
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 11:56:59 -0400
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
I made some mega-film a couple of days ago. I poured some PVC pipe cement onto water. The resulting film was extremely strong - but it weighed 3mg per square inch. With this stuff you could make an EZB wing and stab that weighed .24g if you left out all the wood.
----- Original Message -----
From: RLBailey_at_care4free.net
To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: micro film making
I advise you to buy some proprietary film (advertised as such). Clear shrinking dope may work but I would bet against it. I used a small can which held 35 mm photographic film with a hole about 3 mm dia in the side at the bottom. Pour the film from the can, holding the can a few cm above the water surface.To make film large enough for eg F1D you will need a tank about 1 x 1.5m with a depth of about 3 - 4 cm. That amount of water will weigh 50 kg or more.
Bob
On Aug 4 2010, gert-jan wrote:
oke thats the way to do it .
that nitrate aircraft dope is the same as what we call (spanlak )Clear Shrinking Dope?
or how do I create this?
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Fred Bare wrote:
>
> The making of the covering material is called Microfilm. A shallow tank of water is allowed to "cure"- for 12 or more hours allowing volatile chemicals to escape. The ideal water temperature is between 68 to 74 degrees F. The microfilm based on nitrate aircraft dope with plasticizers added. Adjust the fornula to get the film you would like. A small amount of the solution is poured out onto the surface of the water in one smooth, extended linear motion.. The solution spreads out on the surface of the water to a nearly mono molecular thickness. It is allowed to "set" on the water's surface for several minutes.
>
>
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Received on Sat Aug 07 2010 - 09:11:36 CEST
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