Re: Optimizing a ministick

From: Bruce McCrory <hbm55_at_comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 19:44:12 -0000

I posted a file for you, Matthew. See previous post for location. It
is called "Adjusting indoor motors", or similar. Go through it and
you will get an understanding of the total process that Bob and
others are suggesting.

You may even see it attached to someone's model box.

Bruce
In Seattle


--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, <RLBailey@...> wrote:
>
> Matthew
>
> It seems that your model ran out of turns before landing. If so,
your rubber is too thick in cross section. Try another motor the same
weight but 10% longer. You will find you need to back off much less
than before to get the same height.
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: matthew taudevin
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 2:08 AM
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Optimizing a ministick
>
>
>
> OK. I started off winding up to 2080 turns and then backing of
640 turns which equals 1440. In terms of "winds left" I did not have
640 turns left on the motor. I can say that the motor had started to
loose about 30% of it's winding "bunches" and had finished winding
completely about 30 seconds later. I might try some .8mm rubber or
maybe .9mm to see what happens. You guys have been great helps.
Thanks.
>
> regards
> Matthew
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> From: "RLBailey_at_..." <RLBailey@...>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, 28 December, 2008 2:54:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Optimizing a ministick
>
>
> Matthew
>
> How many turns did you back off and land with?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mattnsim
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 8:54 AM
> Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Optimizing a ministick
>
>
> Ladies and gentlemen. With the help of you all, I have managed
to
> increase my times from 2:48 in a 20ft ceiling to 3:18 as of
today. I
> used the practice where you wind to 90% motor capacity and then
back
> off to your predetermined torque setting, and Presto!! I
actually
> still do not have a torque meter but I just counted backward
from the
> winds I had put it. I did notice that the model would flip due
to a
> high climb rate in the early stages. I may need to go down in
rubber
> size. I am only putting on 1280 turns and it is flipping over.
I am
> sure I should be aiming for higher turns than that.
>
> regards
> Matthew
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction _at_yahoogroups. com, matthew taudevin
> <mattnsim_at_ .> wrote:
> >
> > thanks for the advice leroy. sorry to hear about your
ministick
> getting stuck in the rafters. I live in Brisbane which is about
2 1/2
> hours away from toowoomba.
> >
> > regards
> > Matthew
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: LeRoy C Cordes <lcordes_at_ >
> > To: Indoor_Construction _at_yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Monday, 22 December, 2008 3:18:01 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Indoor_Constructio n] Re: Optimizing a ministick
> >
> > 
> > Matthew, there is no need for the nylon bearing at the rear
(though
> it won't hurt to have it there) as the rear end is fixed and
the
> torque is measured by the twisting of the wire. Again my
only
> caution is to make sure the joints (if any) are mechanically
sound.Â
> It won't matter too much for the ministick size motors but if
you get
> to winding larger material and a joint comes loose it could
really
> smart when the whole assembly comes out and slaps your hand.Â
I
> observed this happening to one of my flying buddies.Â
> > A caution for your Brisbane site (particularly if you're
plane is
> scrubbing the ceiling as we do at most of our sites) - You
might
> think that you should wind much more than at your local site
but when
> I first went down to the University of Illinois Armory with a
100
> foot ceiling I was told that I should start by winding the same
as
> for our 40 foot site and they were right, the plane got right
up to
> the top right away - then later, by winding too much, I
managed to
> leave my newer MiniStick in the steel rafters - oh well, it
happens.
> >
> > Where are you located in Australia ? I've got a Sister-in-
Law in
> Toowoomba.
> >
> > LeRoy Cordes
> > AMA 16974
> > Chicago, IL
> > In God We Trust
> >
> >
> > On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 14:21:34 -0800 (PST) matthew taudevin
> <mattnsim_at_ .> writes:
> > thanks leroy, I like the simpler one with the metal bracket
as the
> base. Could I use a nylon thrust bearing at the back as well as
the
> front of the bracket? My brain goes into overload when i
read stuff
> that I do not fully understand.
> >
> > Â I have access to lots of music wire (I am a guitar
teacher) so
> most of the construction should be easy enough. I just do not
have a
> soldering iron.
> >
> > Can I just say that all your help so far has been fantastic.
> Furthermore, If i can acheive 5 minutes flying with my
ministick I
> will win this years ministick comp, hands down. As far as I
know none
> of the guys get 5 minutes flying time. If I could get 5 minutes
in
> the hall accross the road (which is tiny) The gym that we fly
in at
> brisbane is 3 times as high and I should be able to do over and
above
> 5 minutes!!! that would be so satisfying. I will do some
testing
> today. stay tuned.
> >
> > regards
> > Matthew
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: LeRoy C Cordes <lcordes_at_ >
> > To: Indoor_Construction _at_yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sunday, 21 December, 2008 4:15:56 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Indoor_Constructio n] Re: Optimizing a ministick
> >
> > 
> > Matthew there are plans around but here's a copy of a simple
one
> and one more complex. I like the more complex one (by Cezar
Banks)
> Â but the specified wire is too heavy for ministick (I need to
make
> another with a thinner torque wire). Make sure that any wire
joints
> don't rely on just solder but use a positive connection.
> >
> > LeRoy Cordes
> > AMA 16974
> > Chicago, IL
> > In God We Trust
> >
> >
> > On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 02:53:22 -0800 (PST) matthew taudevin
> <mattnsim_at_ .> writes:
> > there's a cheetah in the tank?? what does that mean? I never
even
> considered winding to 90% capacity and then backing off to the
torque
> required for a no touch ceiling run.
> >
> > should i glue the front wing post to the fuse and leave the
rear
> post for trim adjustments?
> >
> > When you say WASH what does that mean? How do I get rid of it?
> >
> > and .027 rubber that is .68mm YIKES!! I have some .8mm that I
might
> try first to see what happens.
> >
> > How do i get a torque meter? Can I make one?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: Bruce McCrory <hbm55_at_>
> > To: Indoor_Construction _at_yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Saturday, 20 December, 2008 4:48:07 PM
> > Subject: [Indoor_Constructio n] Re: Optimizing a ministick
> >
> > I don't see images, but the Utube video was enlightening.
Prop
> looked
> > good, and your comments mean there's a cheetah in the tank.
> >
> > Definitely wound to "no touch" torque. You want a torque
meter, to
> > record the no-touch force; then wind to 90% turns and back
off to
> > the "no touch" power. It will extend the flight time, giving
you
> more
> > turns, longer cruise torque.Â
> >
> > .039" (1mm) is going to be too powerful for the weight
adjusted
> > model. It's a good size for A6, however.
> >
> > Others on the list might see more than me. My thoughts:
> >
> > The wash can be reduced. I don't use any, relying on the MS
to
> twist
> > it in during launch torque and climb. Fixed wash equals
cruise
> > hassles and drag. This is a good opportunity to shave down
the mass
> > of the motor stick. Remove smidges of incidence - the bobbing
can
> be
> > that, or the high wash angles.
> >
> > MS should be about .08 - .10 grams. Mine are .07(-) and hard
wood,
> > 7# - 8#. Thinner sections twist better. Put about 5-7 degrees
tilt
> in
> > the stab - drop right side. Straighten the wing spars - no
wash.
> Get
> > some .023"-.027" rubber, same 11" length and wind it to 90%
of
> break
> > turns to test full model duration (and endurance). .027" is
> > competition size for your lower ceiling. Start grinding down
the
> MS.
> > When the weight gets down close and the wound rubber doesn't
break
> > the stick, but the stab levels out with the wing spar line,
you are
> > close. The MS will automatically twist wash-in into the left
wing
> > panel. It's ready for fine tuning in the field house.
> >
> > If you can beat on the ceiling, test at full torque. A half,
or
> third
> > motor might help at this stage. The idea is to file down more
wood
> > section on the sides near the front wing post and increase
the
> launch
> > wash slightly. I've never done anything with the stick behind
the
> > posts but to reduce weight. MHO, the short moments counteract
any
> > advantage to moving the thrust line, like in EZB. Mini-stick
seems
> to
> > like steady, straight booms.
> >
> > This is fun homework.
> >
> > Bruce in Seattle
> >
> >
> > --- In Indoor_Construction _at_yahoogroups. com, matthew
taudevin
> > <mattnsim_at_> wrote:
> > >
> > > thanks bruce for the info.
> > >
> > > My props have helical twist.
> > >
> > > rubber is 11" loop of 1mm square and weighs .5grams
> > >
> > > The model weighs .6grams without rubber so all up weight
with
> > existing motor is 1.1grams. A little heavy but it is my first
> > ministick. i may be able to take some weight off with some
light
> > sanding of the fuselage.
> > >
> > > ceiling is normal pointed variety and is about 20 feet
high. here
> > is video you will see the obstructions that I mean.
> > > http://www.youtube. com/watch? v=-wzy7v0funk
> > >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> >
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> > LeRoy Cordes
> > AMA 16974
> > Chicago, IL
> > In God We Trust
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter
inbox.
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> >
> >
> > LeRoy Cordes
> > AMA 16974
> > Chicago, IL
> > In God We Trust
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________
_________ _
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> >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
>
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Received on Mon Dec 29 2008 - 11:44:13 CET

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