Re: Plasticizer's?

From: Jim Richmond <indoorflyer_at_msn.com>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 15:25:01 -0000

--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "John Kagan"
<john_kagan_at_...> wrote:
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Erich Reinbolz"
> <erich44_at_> wrote:
> >
> > Have just recieved 2 bottles of plasticizer from A2Z. One is DOP
> > (dioctyl Pthalate), the other TCP (Tricresyl Phosphate). I use
mostly
> > Ambroid on indoor models (ezb, pp). Also use Duco at times. My
> > questions: which one of these cizers will work with the ambroid,
with
> > Duco, and what is a suggested dosage?
> >
> > Thanks for listening.
> >
> > erich
>
> I use Ambroid with no plasticizers. My .008" tailbooms come out
pretty
> straight, as long as I keep the seam straight and don't glue it in
a
> spiral.
>
> One thing that may help is that I build so in frequently that the
glue
> dries solid in the bottle and then gets re-activated with acetone.
I
> read somewhere that that helps (although that's not why I do it :) )
>
As a follow-on to John's comments, my methods are similar to his
except that I have been using Duco thinned with acetone for about 40
years now with no added plasticizers.In order to make the glue "fast
drying" I use pre-dryed Duco in the mix. The pre-drying gets rid of
the slow drying solvents. The mix is thin enough to easily flow
through the .014 dia. nozzle of my glue applicator and that's how I
judge and adjust the viscosity. Two coats are usually required to
make strong joints. This glue does shrink a bit but if parts are held
in position during drying it's OK. I glue the seams of tubular parts
while on a metal form and this keeps them pretty straight. This is
risky but if the part is moved a bit after each glue application,
sticking can be avoided.
Received on Sun May 11 2008 - 08:25:04 CEST