Hi,
In my earlier email I meant to write "Harlan" not
"Jones". Thank you all for the replies/information,
its been very helpful.
The base is made from redwood and your comment
about someone putting a mat appears exactly correct. I
can see where they raised the micrometers by the
thickness of the mat.
I looked at the picture on indoorduration website.
The wood blade block holder is missing and I am
pretty sure it is a Ray Harlan stripper.
The aluminum straight edge I have has two set
screw in it. I assume this allows the straight edge
to ride on these two points. Is this another
modification by a previous owner or is this standard?
It was also mentioned that the blade holder is not
needed, but those that have used this tool do you
recommend I try to purchase one from Ray or make one?
Do you think the tool still can cut very good spars
without the blade holder?
Thanks,
Kurt
--- Steve Brown <rtxc_at_yahoo.com> wrote:
> It appears to be a Ray Harlan balsa stripper. The
> two upper
> components are the actual stripper. The bottom two
> are not "original
> equipment" but appear to be shims to block up the
> 1/4" thick
> straightedge (item 2 from the top). Also part of the
> original
> equipment is a wood block that holds a broken razor
> blade and slides
> against the straightedge.
>
> The stripper originally comes with a redwood base,
> the two micrometer
> heads and a thin aluminum "fence" glued to the
> redwood base. A lot of
> people remove the aluminum fence. It appears to me
> that someone has
> removed the fense and put a layer of self-healing
> mat on the redwood
> base. That solves one of the minor problems with
> these units which is
> the tip of the blade following the grain in the
> redwood base.
>
> Not shown in the photo, and apparently missing, is
> the wood block
> blade holder.
>
> This tool is intended to cut thin sheet wood and
> works well on indoor
> balsa for spars and ribs. You can use it without the
> bladeholder. The
> wood sheet is taped to the base. The straightedge is
> laid over the
> wood and the micrometers rolled up to about 1/8"
> from the edge of the
> wood (if you have the bladeholder) or almost flush
> with the edge if
> you are using just a razor blade. The micrometers
> are rolled to a
> zero position and a truing cut is made. Then the
> micrometers are
> backed off (.025 per 360 degree revolution) to the
> desired width. You
> can also cut tapers this way.
>
>
>
>
>
Kurt Krempetz
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Received on Mon Nov 13 2006 - 20:12:02 CET