Re: RE: Newbie questions. After you finish laughing, please help!

From: Ken Achee <ken_at_achee.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 14:37:38 -0500

Glad to suggest it Ron. You would only be doing a newbie a disservice if
you let them go to bed not knowing about it.

Kne


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 2:34 PM, Ron Williams <groncan_at_gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> Thank you, thank you. I love it when I don't have to suggest my book
> myself. I'm hoping that it will be available soon at the Smithsonian's Air
> & Space Museum amongst other sources.
>
> Aviate!
>
> Ron Williams
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 3:25 PM, <joshuawfinn_at_gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Don,
>> Hopefully someone will pop up with the link for how to obtain a copy of
>> Ron Williams "Building and Flying Indoor Model Airplanes" which is very
>> comprehensive. Additionally I would suggest visiting
>> indoornewsandviews.com, which is the premier source for indoor
>> technology and techniques including full (free!) access to roughly 50 years
>> of articles and data. Your first stop should be the Hobby Shopper EZB
>> article which can be found in "The Best of INAV" in the downloads section
>> along with several other absolute gems of indoor instruction.
>>
>> Now on to some suggestions...there is only one way I've found to handle
>> indoor parts, and that is to work your way down starting with a Limited
>> Pennyplane (very easy compared to the parlor mites, which are intended to
>> be fairly high performance models) and moving on to A-6, F1L, ministick,
>> and so on in roughly that order. By the time you've made it to ministick,
>> you'll know how to make your own decisions on what to build next.
>>
>> Condenser paper is not easy to use in my opinion (some find it
>> easy...everyone is different). There are several ways to attach it.
>> Gluestick can be thinned using water. Rubber cement can be thinned with
>> Bestine thinner and while the film can be peeled loose of it, the cement
>> remains sticky. For plastic films, I haven't found anything that
>> outperforms 3M Super 77, although some fliers prefer other products for a
>> wide variety of reasons.
>>
>> I use white glue for the flying surfaces and find that it is very light.
>> You do have to use a razor blade to pop the surfaces loose after assembly.
>> I'm not patient, so I set dihedral breaks with cyano, and the same goes for
>> installing prop bearings, rear hooks, and attaching tissue tubes to the
>> flying surfaces (a way to get a quick fasten since the motorstick is often
>> the primary warp control for the wing). If you assemble the flying surfaces
>> by using coins to hold them in place, you can usually avoid any residual
>> stresses. For your completed surfaces, I would suggest weighing them down
>> with coins and spraying with water. If your building board is heat
>> resistant, you can then insert the whole thing into your oven for 20
>> minutes at 180-200, and when your remove everything, the warps should be
>> long gone.
>>
>> And now I'll back off and let you digest the thousands of pages of
>> articles you now have access to...
>>
>> Good flying,
>> Joshua Finn
>>
>
>
>
Received on Mon Mar 10 2014 - 12:37:39 CET