Re: RE: Newbie questions. After you finish laughing, please help!

From: Ron Williams <groncan_at_gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 15:34:25 -0400

Thank you, thank you. I love it when I don't have to suggest my book
myself. I'm hoping that it will be available soon at the Smithsonian's Air
& Space Museum amongst other sources.

Aviate!

Ron Williams


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 3:25 PM, <joshuawfinn_at_gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> Don,
> Hopefully someone will pop up with the link for how to obtain a copy of
> Ron Williams "Building and Flying Indoor Model Airplanes" which is very
> comprehensive. Additionally I would suggest visiting
> indoornewsandviews.com, which is the premier source for indoor technology
> and techniques including full (free!) access to roughly 50 years of
> articles and data. Your first stop should be the Hobby Shopper EZB article
> which can be found in "The Best of INAV" in the downloads section along
> with several other absolute gems of indoor instruction.
>
> Now on to some suggestions...there is only one way I've found to handle
> indoor parts, and that is to work your way down starting with a Limited
> Pennyplane (very easy compared to the parlor mites, which are intended to
> be fairly high performance models) and moving on to A-6, F1L, ministick,
> and so on in roughly that order. By the time you've made it to ministick,
> you'll know how to make your own decisions on what to build next.
>
> Condenser paper is not easy to use in my opinion (some find it
> easy...everyone is different). There are several ways to attach it.
> Gluestick can be thinned using water. Rubber cement can be thinned with
> Bestine thinner and while the film can be peeled loose of it, the cement
> remains sticky. For plastic films, I haven't found anything that
> outperforms 3M Super 77, although some fliers prefer other products for a
> wide variety of reasons.
>
> I use white glue for the flying surfaces and find that it is very light.
> You do have to use a razor blade to pop the surfaces loose after assembly.
> I'm not patient, so I set dihedral breaks with cyano, and the same goes for
> installing prop bearings, rear hooks, and attaching tissue tubes to the
> flying surfaces (a way to get a quick fasten since the motorstick is often
> the primary warp control for the wing). If you assemble the flying surfaces
> by using coins to hold them in place, you can usually avoid any residual
> stresses. For your completed surfaces, I would suggest weighing them down
> with coins and spraying with water. If your building board is heat
> resistant, you can then insert the whole thing into your oven for 20
> minutes at 180-200, and when your remove everything, the warps should be
> long gone.
>
> And now I'll back off and let you digest the thousands of pages of
> articles you now have access to...
>
> Good flying,
> Joshua Finn
>
>
Received on Mon Mar 10 2014 - 12:34:26 CET