Most of these guys have also been flying 20+ years and don't make beginner's mistakes.
Kang, I have aligned prop blades on an A2Z fixture. Glued, let sit 20 minutes to dry, then do the other. Double-check and all is perfect. Put into box. Next flying session,I take out and get shakie-shakie. Put it on the fixture and find that, in the box, one is no longer in alignment. It isn't loose in the tissue tube - I have to use acetone to get it loose, re-align and it works great after a drop of glue.
So I like my tissue tubes. {grin}
Regards.
Mike Kirda
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" <ykleetx@...> wrote:
>
> Brown, Kagan, Richmond, Cailliau, Schramm, ... don't use tubes.
>
> Who's old fashioned, modern, and post-modern?
>
> I agree that retrofitting a prop with different blades is a good feature. However, I don't think doing so at the flying site (during a contest) is the right thing. Retro-fitting should be a planned activity, IMO. I don't carry around back-up prop blades. If I had back-up prop blades, I would build another VP hub and complete the unit and test the unit as a whole.
>
> When I attach the blades, I make sure that the whole prop is aligned. The prop alignment is adjustable because I use Ambroid (with kevlar and tissue) to attach the prop spar to the carbon "spar rod".
>
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "mkirda@" <mkirda@> wrote:
> >
> > Call me old-fashioned, but I want a tissue tube in there somewhere...
> >
> > Seems too easy for a blade to get slightly misaligned with no way to adjust. Also if a blade breaks, I want to have spares available that I could easily add. (After breaking two prop blades last night, I see a lot of advantages to this.)
> >
> > Regards.
> > Mike Kirda
> >
> > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" <ykleetx@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Gary,
> > >
> > > > What keeps the .020 carbon rod from sliding out
> > > > of the .020/.040 tube? Is it the .011 rod in the .015 hole?
> > >
> > > Yes.
> > >
> > > > the prop spar is glued into the .020 carbon rod.
> > >
> > > Yes, the prop spar needs to be attached to the .020 carbon rod and the .011 rod. There are several ways to do this, and I will take some time to explain in better detail in the next couple of days. For now, here is the quick description, including how the sparless blade is constructed.
> > >
> > > A Blade Construction
> > >
> > > - form outline (wet) with twist on prop block 1
> > > - on another prop block 2, put down double sided tape along a trace of the outline
> > > - place dried outline with twist on block 2, using double sided tape to hold the outline down
> > > - put in temporary straight ribs
> > > - apply boron to first side
> > > - remove outline carefully from prop block, place outline with boron side down on block
> > > - apply boron to second side
> > > - replace temporary straight ribs with real ribs
> > >
> > > B cover
> > >
> > > C glue on spar
> > >
> > > D put on VP hub
> > >
> > > I'm experimenting with orders of steps B,C,D. One way is C,B,D.
> > >
> > > Another way is (a la Steve Brown):
> > >
> > > - glue prop spar to 020 rod and 011 lever arm before assembling VP hub
> > > - assemble VP hub
> > > - build outline/ribs on VP hub + spar assembly
> > > - cover
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Warthodson@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Kang,
> > > > Thanks for posting the VP hub photos & text. The diagrams & dimensions were especially helpful. As I understand it, the prop spar is glued into the .020 carbon rod. What keeps the .020 carbon rod from sliding out of the .020/.040 tube? Is it the .011 rod in the .015 hole?
> > > > Gary Hodson
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Yuan Kang Lee <ykleetx_at_>
> > > > To: Indoor_Construction <Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Wed, Mar 6, 2013 10:06 am
> > > > Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: carbon VP hub data?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I look forward to your feedback -- how it can be constructed simpler, alternate materials, etc.
> > > >
> > > > The hub is strong and light, at 70 mg. It should withstand the impact of an exploding motor.
> > > >
> > > > There is one kink to be worked out. Although the hub's action is very smooth when you work it in your hand, in flight, I believe there is some binding. In a normal flight, this means that the return to low pitch happens in jumps. I heard it pop into low pitch this past weekend in the F1D contests. The flight result was still very good -- I flew a 14:45 with a half motor at 25'.
> > > >
> > > > The big problem happens when the prop hits the ceiling, obstructions, or when the model is steered from the front. The VP goes into low pitch and is stuck there -- this happened when I flew in Atlanta. At Torrance, I flew no touch, so this problem was not detrimental to the final result.
> > > >
> > > > When I started building VP's back in October last year, I built one or two of every existing type to better understand how they work. Two things struck me -- the existing VP hubs require precise fit of components, and the wire hinge was the smoothest. These observations led to this VP hub, which uses a modified wire hinge and does not require a precise fit. (I'll go into this later.)
> > > >
> > > > I was mostly excited when I thought that this VP hub may be accessible to everyone. I guess we'll have to see about that.
> > > >
> > > > I want to extend this design to F1M / Pennyplane and any larger and heavier indoor models. I hope this would encourage more people to fly VP's indoor. I have espoused before that indoor flying in a low ceiling gym using a VP is the "ultimate". It allows gentle flying of our models, and brings maximum enjoyment if indoor flying.
> > > >
> > > > -Kang
> > > >
> > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Nick Ray wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Everyone,
> > > > >
> > > > > The INAV site has been updated with an article on Kang's hub. I want to
> > > > > thank Kang for putting that together for us so quickly.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://indoornewsandviews.wordpress.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards,
> > > > >
> > > > > Nick
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Received on Thu Mar 07 2013 - 08:05:39 CET