It sounds like maybe I should suck it up and and add a second arm with an
adjustment screw for low pitch. I was trying to keep things simple since
Kibbie is less than 2 weeks away, but I also don't want to waste time
building something that needs to be replaced right away.
On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 10:49 PM, Tapio Linkosalo <tapio.linkosalo_at_iki.fi>wrote:
> **
>
>
> On 22.6.2012 6:15, jannis1indoor wrote:
> > Would recommend building the prop hub with sockets so that you can
> > rotate the blades to change the pitch and have a good pitch gage along
> > so that you set the pitch on site. A-Z sells a real nice variable pitch
> > gage. A pitch range of about 23 to 35 inches is what I would recommend
> > but this all dependent on your prop design, rubber size you want to fly
> > on and your overall aircraft which you will not know until you test it
> > out at the site.
>
> Sockets is a good thing, but I would also recommend some means of
> adjusting the low pitch without turning the blades in the sockets. As
> Nick pointed out, once you get too low in the low pitch, the prop starts
> to act as airbrake, making the model dive, so there may be some need to
> adjust the low pitch (but once you get it right, not the same need to
> trim per site as for high pitch and pre-tension). So possibly a setscrew
> is not needed, some shimming with balsa or bending some wire would do.
> The reason to adjust the low pitch without turning the blades is that if
> you do the latter, you also change the high pitch and the pre-tension,
> meaning that you essentially need to start trimming the VP from the very
> start.
>
> -Tapio-
>
>
>
Received on Fri Jun 22 2012 - 08:24:49 CEST
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:47 CET