If you're unsure about any of it just glue 4 sticks together and give it
a try. Make sure the solution is 10:1 or more so it will wick. Spraying
is easier for some stuff but some people have problems with spraying on
really light structurse like EZB. Kang uses spraying on 300mg EZB's! the
problem with spraying is that you only get one shot at getting it right.
On 4/28/2009 11:58 AM, Ed wrote:
>
> Thanks Bill, U answered all the questions, all I have to do is DO IT!!
> Thanks
> Ed
> /-------Original Message-------/
> /*From:*/ William Gowen <mailto:wdgowen_at_gmail.com>
> /*Date:*/ 4/28/2011 11:54:34 AM
> /*To:*/ Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> /*Subject:*/ Re: [Indoor_Construction] covering with mylar
> Normally the first application of the solution will anchor the
> outline. If you're worried about it you can dab a little of the
> solution in a couple of spots around the perimeter. The outline
> shouldn't change shape during the process.
>
> On 4/28/2009 11:36 AM, Ed wrote:
>
> Bill, Thanks for the quick reply. What holds the outline in place
> while your applying the solution? And , getting the outline "wet" does
> it change shape?
> /-------Original Message-------/
> /*From:*/ William Gowen <mailto:wdgowen_at_gmail.com>
> /*Date:*/ 4/28/2011 11:28:08 AM
> /*To:*/ Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> /*Subject:*/ Re: [Indoor_Construction] covering with mylar
> Ed
> I like to let it sit for at least an hour before I start cutting the
> film. Overnight is even better. It's one of those things where it's
> real painful if you mess up.
>
> On 4/28/2009 11:15 AM, Ed wrote:
>
> Bill, for some reason the Indoor Construction site is not working & I
> have a question on your version. When u apply the "solution" to the
> outline that is setting on top of the mylar how long does it take to
> cure or dry?
> Thanks
> Ed
> /-------Original Message-------/
> /*From:*/ Bill Gowen <mailto:wdgowen_at_gmail.com>
> /*Date:*/ 4/22/2011 11:08:18 AM
> /*To:*/ Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> /*Subject:*/ Re: [Indoor_Construction] covering with mylar
> No problem.
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Ed <mailto:ednlois_at_citcom.net>
> *To:* Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, April 22, 2011 11:01 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [Indoor_Construction] covering with mylar
>
> Hi Bill, thanks for the fast reply. I will check-out the file. If I
> have ANY QUESTIONS I'd like to get back to u if I may?
> Ed
> /-------Original Message-------/
> /*From:*/ Bill Gowen <mailto:wdgowen_at_gmail.com>
> /*Date:*/ 4/22/2011 10:52:37 AM
> /*To:*/ Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> /*Subject:*/ Re: [Indoor_Construction] covering with mylar
> Covering with Mylar is very easy. There are a lot of different ways to
> do it. The video you saw is my version of the technique described by
> F1Diddler in the files section of this group.
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Edward <mailto:ednlois_at_citcom.net>
> *To:* Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, April 22, 2011 10:42 AM
> *Subject:* [Indoor_Construction] covering with mylar
>
> This is one of the toughest parts of indoor, covering. I was at a web
> site where someone was covering with mylar & was using 3M77 in a
> "little" plastic container mixing it with a solvent and putting it on
> a stab. with a brush, then it was over! It said this process was on
> Indoor Construction but I cannot find it. These guys with the F1Ds
> that look like they were covered with moulded Mylar must be able to
> leap tall buildings in a single bound! Help.....please.
> Ed Berton
> Brevard, NC
>
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Received on Thu Apr 28 2011 - 09:03:17 CEST