I think that could work pretty well. Keeping the last axis square may be interesting. You should put something between .0005" and .001" between the gears to ensure there is no binding (half mil mylar - 1 or 2 pieces). Backlash doesn't hurt a winder, up to a point. Too much will give a ratty winder. Note, you don't need to have the gear train along a line. You could use this method with the lines between axes forming a triangle. You just need to be sure 1st and 3rd axis gears don't touch. Makes a more compact winder.
I haven't heard of carbon pinions. Might be worth a try. Any plastic gears should have at least 1/8" width for indoor winding tasks.
Ray
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Tapio Linkosalo <tapio.linkosalo@...> wrote:
>
> On 15.3.2011 15:38, ray_harlan wrote:
> > You can go with either pitch. There's not a lot of difference. Aluminum
> > gears will require some lube. But you would like a very free winder, so
> > a Ministick motor will unwind almost all the way by itself. Lube will
> > add viscous drag and slow it dowm. Using plastic spur gears and brass or
> > stainless pinions will work better.
>
> It seems to me that all plastic gears from ServoCity are molded, so
> aluminum would be the machined material for spurs. However, the pinions
> come in brass, metal (steel?) and carbon. So would carbon pinions rotate
> in aluminum spurs without lubrication?
>
> > I don't think the adjustable plate idea is very practival. How do you
> > adjust both sides the same? It would be easier to make a new pair of
> > side plates. If you Loctite the bearings in, you could get away with
> > using a reamer to get the final hole size. But the whole process should
> > be: drill with undersize drill. Use an undersize end mill (a regrind) to
> > get hole location, better than a drill. Use a .0005" oversize reamer to
> > get final hole size. Do the two plates together, of course. These can be
> > held together with standoffs and put inside an enclosure. This is what
> > Bob Wilder did.
>
> Ok, that however sounds quite complicated to do with hand tools and
> drill press. The next idea: first attach (drill places for the bearings)
> for the input and output axes, to a distance that is slightly shorter
> than would be if all three axes were in line. Then prepare the mid axis
> so that it has the bearings, and locating rings (or squares or whatever)
> around them, and the whole setup with gears and bearings in the end just
> slides between the face plates of the winder. Now slip that axis in so
> that the pinion rests on the spur of the input axis and the spur on the
> pinion of the output. When alignment is right, zap the bearing location
> rings to the face plates, carefully dismantle the winder, and drill/tap
> or glue the mid axle bearing holders firmly in place.
>
>
>
>
> -Tapio-
>
Received on Thu Mar 17 2011 - 06:05:14 CET
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:46 CET