I forgot to mention that I much prefer the counter to count input cranks. With a 20:1 or 10:1 winder, it is trivial to figure the actual turns. I don't even record actual turns in my notes, just input turns. When you are winding, you don't say to yourself 20, 40 60 80 100 ..., you say 1,2 3,4 5... One very important lesson I learned as soon as I had a counter on my winder was that I couldn't count! By the time I had 70 or 80 cranks in, I was off by 1 or 2. The problem persists even today.
Ray
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Phedon Tsiknopoulos <phedon21t@...> wrote:
>
> Most of those counters have 3 digits. I have the mini-cassette type., also 3
> digits, and it counts input since it only goes to 999 turns.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: ray_harlan <rbharlan_at_...>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tue, March 15, 2011 6:38:22 AM
> Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Winders
>
>
> You can go with either pitch. There's not a lot of difference. Aluminum gears
> will require some lube. But you would like a very free winder, so a Ministick
> motor will unwind almost all the way by itself. Lube will add viscous drag and
> slow it dowm. Using plastic spur gears and brass or stainless pinions will work
> better. 60 tooth spur gears and 12 and 15 tooth pinions will get 20:1. You can
> get machined Delrin gears from places like PIC and Berg, here in the US. There
> must be comparable places in EU.
>
>
> I don't think the adjustable plate idea is very practival. How do you adjust
> both sides the same? It would be easier to make a new pair of side plates. If
> you Loctite the bearings in, you could get away with using a reamer to get the
> final hole size. But the whole process should be: drill with undersize drill.
> Use an undersize end mill (a regrind) to get hole location, better than a drill.
> Use a .0005" oversize reamer to get final hole size. Do the two plates together,
> of course. These can be held together with standoffs and put inside an
> enclosure. This is what Bob Wilder did.
>
> I was going to build winders years ago, but never got going. The counters that I
> liked were tiny mechanical counters from tape decks. They were cheap and
> plentiful. They counted up and down with no fuss. Now, I can't find them
> anywhere on the web. No one needs tape decks.
>
> Ray
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Tapio Linkosalo
> <tapio.linkosalo_at_> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Ray and others, for a bunch of good comments and ideas to work
> > on. My stack of questions is not, however, finished, but rather keeps
> > stacking up....
> >
> > On 14.3.2011 20:00, ray_harlan wrote:
> > > For ball bearings, a "suitably large hole" would have a tolerance on the
> > > order of .0002", not something you get with a drill. The holes are
> > > drilled undersize and then bored to size. You can increase this
> > > tolerance a bit, if you Loctite the bearings in, instead of pressing
> > > them. But anything over .001" could lead to sloppy gear mesh. As Art
> > > points out, the most important thing is the center distance between two
> > > gears. Too close and they bind; too far, and they get ratty. A 32 pitch
> > > is pretty good for any indoor winding. Class of gears also is important,
> > > but you don't need super gears. Most nylon or Delrin gears are molded
> > > and fit in one of the lower classes. They still should be fine and are
> > > what A2Z uses. Phenolic gears are machined and are quiet like nylon.
> >
> > I was considering aluminium gears from ServoCity for the strength, but
> > maybe plastics would be strong enough? Is deldrin/acetal molded or
> > machined? From the price I gather molded?
> >
> > Does gear size affect the gear friction? Is 32 pitch coarser (to rotate)
> > than 48 pitch? What to go for?
> >
> > > If you make a winder, it would be best to mock it up using a milling
> > > machine with a digital readout and fiddling with center distances until
> > > the mesh feels good (just outside of binding). Two plates on standoffs
> > > works fine.
> >
> > Another idea: attach the gears to smaller plates that attach to the main
> > body with a couple of screws in oval holes. This way you can loosen the
> > screws, slide the axis until gear distance is good, then tighten the
> > screws and secure with loctite. If there is a sub-plate in between the
> > main plates (as in Arts' winders) the input and output axes can be in
> > line with each other, and if the gears for the first and second phase
> > are similar (same number of teeth, then it will suffice to move the
> > intermediate axis....
> >
> >
> >
> > -Tapio-
> >
>
Received on Wed Mar 16 2011 - 06:13:03 CET