This must have been discussed before, but don't recall any final
answers. These questions arised from the final prop building session
before the trip to Belgrade.
I had used thinned contact glue, brushed on the structures, before. That
turned out to be a disaster, as the thin glue soaked into the balsa
spars, gained lots of weight, but did not tack. No good. So for the
final session I ended up spraying the glue (M77) from the can. It worked
otherwise ok, but my old can has started developing "threads" of glue
instead of producing a fine mist. Luckily there were not too many of
these, but I can see the problem developing worse, which would mean that
spraying the glue will not work in the future (from that can, at least. So:
- what makes this "threading" problem? Is my nozzle cloaked (I try to
clean it spraying it empty inverted, but maybe that is not enough, maybe
I need to use some solvent to clean the nozzle), or does the solvent in
the glue evaporate over the time, making it stickier to spray?
- would it be possible to spray the glue out into a can, add some
solvent and then use an airbrush to apply the glue? Or would cleaning
the brush be too much work, and thus the whole idea stupid?
- Is there a way to spread the glue with brush without adding too much
weight? Most of all, if I make a cradle for the film, drop the frame
"dry" onto the film, and then seep some glue between the film and the
frame, would the capillar pull then keep the glue between the film and
the frame, and stop it from soaking into the wood?
... time to start building new props, and maybe consider some new wings
and tails, too. Have to try out that romanian film, that was claimed to
be as thick/thin as SO-film, but seemed to show more reddish colors
(where SO tends to be greener), so maybe that film is slightly thinner?
-Tapio-
Received on Mon Aug 30 2010 - 06:24:21 CEST
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:46 CET