Bruce, I had never seen this tool attributed to anyone before. Bob
Warmann showed me his and I made a couple of them in different sizes. Do
you know of any way to print that file or copy it into some other
computer friendly file type ?
I also found that using a jeweler's saw to hold the mandrel wire taut
made bending a bit easier.
Thanks
LeRoy Cordes
AMA 16974
Chicago, IL
In God We Trust
On Tue, 17 Mar 2009 21:21:18 -0000 "Bruce McCrory" <hbm55_at_comcast.net>
writes:
> For duration I've never used Harlan's, always made my own bearings,
> simply because his are a standard dimension and don't sound very
> friction-free when a prop is turning. I like control over all parts
> of my models.
>
> In the files section, under "Apparatus...." I parked a Tiff for
> making pigtail bearings, "Tagliofico Pigtail Bearing Jig.tif".
>
> Andrew's works great for one size; and is a nuisance to make - he's
> an architect and heavy into detail. Mine have a rocket-shaped end
> over the slot so various sizes of bearings can be built. Based on
> eye sight and pliers sizes, they can go down to about .15" (4mm)
> length and .10" clearance to the motorstick.
>
> The screw thumb-clamp can be problematic. I tried a clamp system his
> way then added a small C-clamp to get a tight grip. The whole thing
> can be jambed into another heavy clamp, or base and be worked on,
> similar to fly-tying rigs. When the wood gets mushy and mangled,
> it's about 5 minutes to make a new one. Making the pigtail can be
> quick or long like Mark said, but a solid sturdy start is the key to
> being quicker. I finished an A6 size in 20-minutes, including
> polished bearing.
>
> I straighten and chop various sizes of guitar strings into 2" to 3"
> lengths (whatever fits into a plastic pharmacy medicine bottle) and
> stick rows of same size groups onto a sheet of drafting paper -
> cooking parchment should work - with medical adhesive tape. The
> whole thing can be rolled up and put into the bottle. When I make a
> new one, just pull out a wire and go to town.
>
> For smaller size wire - #12,#13 and less - the smooth jawed
> hemostats work great. Be sure to use smooth-jawed pliers only. I
> tighten, rough align, and form everything on the wood clamp. Final
> adjustment for a super smooth bearing is done off the clamp using a
> new mandrel.
>
> This method saves a lot of wire and bandages. Just tag wire ends and
> snip excess wire into a garbage can.
>
> Bruce
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "tony_hebb"
> <tony_hebb_at_...> wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone point me to an article(or tell me) a foolproof way to
> make pigtail bearings before I run out of wire?
> > Does anyone supply an indoor type of glue applicator?
> > In order to thin Ambroid I hear you need acetone, is this
> Cellulose thinners or do I raid my wife's nailpolish remover?
> > I'm based in the UK and been modelling for over 50 years now, done
> most things but enjoying this very recent foray into Indoor Duration
> so far with a mini stick and F1L.
> >
>
>
LeRoy Cordes
AMA 16974
Chicago, IL
In God We Trust
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Received on Wed Mar 18 2009 - 11:00:16 CET