Re: Re: Pigtail bearings (was: I'm new to this, a couple of questions if I may

From: Marty Sasaki <marty.sasaki_at_gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 17:26:40 -0400

I can't compare, but since Ray's bearing has been used to set a bunch
of records, I think it is pretty good. Use a couple of teflon washers
and a small drop of oil at the contact points...

Marty Sasaki

On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 5:21 PM, Bruce McCrory <hbm55_at_comcast.net> wrote:
> For duration I've never used Harlan's, always made my own bearings, simply
> because his are a standard dimension and don't sound very friction-free when
> a prop is turning. I like control over all parts of my models.
>
> In the files section, under "Apparatus...." I parked a Tiff for making
> pigtail bearings, "Tagliofico Pigtail Bearing Jig.tif".
>
> Andrew's works great for one size; and is a nuisance to make - he's an
> architect and heavy into detail. Mine have a rocket-shaped end over the slot
> so various sizes of bearings can be built. Based on eye sight and pliers
> sizes, they can go down to about .15" (4mm) length and .10" clearance to the
> motorstick.
>
> The screw thumb-clamp can be problematic. I tried a clamp system his way
> then added a small C-clamp to get a tight grip. The whole thing can be
> jambed into another heavy clamp, or base and be worked on, similar to
> fly-tying rigs. When the wood gets mushy and mangled, it's about 5 minutes
> to make a new one. Making the pigtail can be quick or long like Mark said,
> but a solid sturdy start is the key to being quicker. I finished an A6 size
> in 20-minutes, including polished bearing.
>
> I straighten and chop various sizes of guitar strings into 2" to 3" lengths
> (whatever fits into a plastic pharmacy medicine bottle) and stick rows of
> same size groups onto a sheet of drafting paper - cooking parchment should
> work - with medical adhesive tape. The whole thing can be rolled up and put
> into the bottle. When I make a new one, just pull out a wire and go to town.
>
> For smaller size wire - #12,#13 and less - the smooth jawed hemostats work
> great. Be sure to use smooth-jawed pliers only. I tighten, rough align, and
> form everything on the wood clamp. Final adjustment for a super smooth
> bearing is done off the clamp using a new mandrel.
>
> This method saves a lot of wire and bandages. Just tag wire ends and snip
> excess wire into a garbage can.
>
> Bruce
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "tony_hebb" <tony_hebb@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Can anyone point me to an article(or tell me) a foolproof way to make
>> pigtail bearings before I run out of wire?
>> Does anyone supply an indoor type of glue applicator?
>> In order to thin Ambroid I hear you need acetone, is this Cellulose
>> thinners or do I raid my wife's nailpolish remover?
>> I'm based in the UK and been modelling for over 50 years now, done most
>> things but enjoying this very recent foray into Indoor Duration so far with
>> a mini stick and F1L.
>>
>
>



-- 
Marty Sasaki
Arlington, MA, USA
http://www.martys-simple-things.com/
marty.sasaki_at_gmail.com
Received on Tue Mar 17 2009 - 14:26:41 CET

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