I don't know Max. Maybe your young eyes can see the stuff, but I'm
constantly losing it even if I am really careful to tape the ends, etc.
I still use it though, but constantly vacuum the workarea and myself. Things
seem to be under control.
Marty
On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 10:42 PM, Max Zaluska <flyezb_at_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Spot on, keeping track of it is key. Things which may help are working
> on a white surface or small closed area/space. If a piece springs off
> somewhere.. I have found wide paper/masking tape to help find the
> little piece, many times then none the tape will pick up any other
> piece which may have flown off.. I think it would be tough to build
> the fuselage of an F1D without boron.. I mean unless you plan on mass
> producing these models, which I doubt, you will learn how to handle
> the boron as well as keep track of it all.
>
> Max
>
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com<Indoor_Construction%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Mark" <f1diddler_at_...> wrote:
> >
> > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com<Indoor_Construction%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "gertjanvanwezel"
> > <gertjanvanwezel_at_> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello people .
> > >
> > > I want to now if it is possible to make a F1D without boron??
> > > Because it,s very dangeres stuff i have read .
> > > So is it possible to make a plane for a low sealing hal??
> > > Please send me so drawings and note's.
> > > thanks GJ from holland
> >
> >
> > Boron is dangerous if and when you lose track of any of it. And it's
> > pretty easy to lose track, since boron strand is .003 or .004",
> > springy, and shatters. If you get a splinter into skin, the body
> > will NOT reject it with a normal inflammation or infection site, but
> > the splinter can migrate until it hits a (sometimes sub epidermal)
> > nerve, and then you know it's there somewhere, and have a bigger
> > problem (digging it out.) Usually (thankfully) you will sense a
> > splinter immediately, but not always. Some modelers (at least Erv
> > Rodemsky)have claimed boron splinters have migrated up to the other
> > side of foot, after a long time.
> >
> > Boron use also has a moral component. Who knows if or how much boron
> > shards I have left in the carpet of motel rooms where I did model
> > repairs (or original building!) try as I did to capture or control
> > all shards(with scotch tape.) Also questionable to leave a boroned
> > model hung up in rafters, inaccessible to modeler, but someone will
> > probably have to deal with model, some day. OF course not much
> > choice after the fact.
> >
> > > So is it possible to make a plane for a low sealing hal??
> > > Please send me so drawings and note's.
> > > thanks GJ from holland
> >
> > Yes, it is possible to make a non boroned F1d. I have posted a plan
> > in our FILES section, look folder "Build these Models" then click
> > file "F1d Fliagra". Nothing special about design--it is only "low
> > ceiling" because of my preference for smallish props for Cat 1
> > flying. (Does regular 27 minutes in 22 ft ceiling.)
> >
> > Anyhow, F1d wings spars do not have to have boron. Of course without
> > boron you should increase spar height, to aproximately .095" X .033.
> > For low ceiling flying, IMO, neither is boron so necessary on
> > motorstick. Several of mine do not have any boron, at the same or
> > similar weight. For tailbooms, however, boron is especially useful,
> > that is if you want a good weight and stability-of-straightness (or
> > to "stay" curved, whichever.) But you could accept a weight
> > increase, and use (I suppose) about .011" or maybe .012" wood
> > (instead of .009") for tailboom, and it should fly fine, just
> > probably .040g or so overweight. If you are flying fixed pitch prop,
> > that could offset the extra wood weights you need in avoiding boron.
> > To get sense about relative wood sizes/weights, find J. Kagan's
> > plan "Eidelon," or "Idle-on" or something like that. :^)
> >
> > BTW, I plan on building a 100% hobbyshop wood, F1d, no boron, along
> > the same concept of "Hobbyshopper EZB." May cost only 75-100mg
> > extra, I believe, with VP. And will probably be more difficult to
> > build than having better materials, and therefore not so practical.
> > Mark F1diddler
> >
>
>
>
--
Marty Sasaki
Arlington, MA, USA
http://www.martys-simple-things.com/
marty.sasaki_at_gmail.com
Received on Wed Oct 22 2008 - 20:05:52 CEST