--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "gertjanvanwezel"
<gertjanvanwezel_at_...> wrote:
>
> Hello people .
>
> I want to now if it is possible to make a F1D without boron??
> Because it,s very dangeres stuff i have read .
> So is it possible to make a plane for a low sealing hal??
> Please send me so drawings and note's.
> thanks GJ from holland
Boron is dangerous if and when you lose track of any of it. And it's
pretty easy to lose track, since boron strand is .003 or .004",
springy, and shatters. If you get a splinter into skin, the body
will NOT reject it with a normal inflammation or infection site, but
the splinter can migrate until it hits a (sometimes sub epidermal)
nerve, and then you know it's there somewhere, and have a bigger
problem (digging it out.) Usually (thankfully) you will sense a
splinter immediately, but not always. Some modelers (at least Erv
Rodemsky)have claimed boron splinters have migrated up to the other
side of foot, after a long time.
Boron use also has a moral component. Who knows if or how much boron
shards I have left in the carpet of motel rooms where I did model
repairs (or original building!) try as I did to capture or control
all shards(with scotch tape.) Also questionable to leave a boroned
model hung up in rafters, inaccessible to modeler, but someone will
probably have to deal with model, some day. OF course not much
choice after the fact.
> So is it possible to make a plane for a low sealing hal??
> Please send me so drawings and note's.
> thanks GJ from holland
Yes, it is possible to make a non boroned F1d. I have posted a plan
in our FILES section, look folder "Build these Models" then click
file "F1d Fliagra". Nothing special about design--it is only "low
ceiling" because of my preference for smallish props for Cat 1
flying. (Does regular 27 minutes in 22 ft ceiling.)
Anyhow, F1d wings spars do not have to have boron. Of course without
boron you should increase spar height, to aproximately .095" X .033.
For low ceiling flying, IMO, neither is boron so necessary on
motorstick. Several of mine do not have any boron, at the same or
similar weight. For tailbooms, however, boron is especially useful,
that is if you want a good weight and stability-of-straightness (or
to "stay" curved, whichever.) But you could accept a weight
increase, and use (I suppose) about .011" or maybe .012" wood
(instead of .009") for tailboom, and it should fly fine, just
probably .040g or so overweight. If you are flying fixed pitch prop,
that could offset the extra wood weights you need in avoiding boron.
To get sense about relative wood sizes/weights, find J. Kagan's
plan "Eidelon," or "Idle-on" or something like that. :^)
BTW, I plan on building a 100% hobbyshop wood, F1d, no boron, along
the same concept of "Hobbyshopper EZB." May cost only 75-100mg
extra, I believe, with VP. And will probably be more difficult to
build than having better materials, and therefore not so practical.
Mark F1diddler
Received on Wed Oct 22 2008 - 12:19:56 CEST
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