--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Marty Sasaki"
<marty_at_...> wrote:
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <mcrabby311@>
wrote:
> >
> > I was directed to this group by John Kagen after writing him a
couple
> > of emails.
>
> Welcome to our world!
>
> > Not alot of luck, broke as much as built. I started with some
> > Peck kits, those went well. But I have a million questions also.
>
> Don't be discouraged. Try building heavier until you get the hang of
> things, then go light and thin. Ministicks are fun, but I would go
> with a larger model, perhaps a Limited Penny Plane, they are easier
to
> build in the beginning.
>
> > 1. Is the purpose to thinning Ambroid glue to lighten it? Does it
> > effect the strength that much?
>
> The idea is to use just enough glue to hold everything together.
Extra
> glue only adds weight without contributing anything. Don't use too
> much glue. Some successful modelers don't think their glue very
much.
> I dilute about 50/50 ambroid with acetone.
>
> > 2. I see rubber strippers online. Are you stripping existing
motors, or
> > do you get wide lengths of rubber? I need some small motors for
> > ministicks, but havent seen anything as small as needed pre-
stripped.
> > (1/32nd)
>
> Most folks purchase rubber in strips up to 1/4 inch and you strip it
> to the desired size. You used to be able to buy stripped rubber from
> Lew Gitlow, don't know if you can still buy it from him.
>
> If you are serious about indoor, it makes sense to buy a stripper.
> There are several on the market, I like the one by Ray Harlan.
>
> > 3. What diameter circle should I expect for a Ministick, and a
> > PennyPlane?
>
> Usually you adjust the circle so that it fits within your flying
site.
> You want it to fly in a circle that keeps it well away from the
walls,
> allowing for a little drift. Smaller circles can usually get closer
to
> the ceiling as well. However, two small circles can be tricky to
trim
> for and the flight won't be as long as with a larger circle.
>
> > 4. I'm going to purchase some balsa as soon as I figure
out "grading,
>
> If you go to a regular hobby store, expect to look through a lot of
> wood to find something appropriate. You might want to buy
some "indoor
> wood". I got some really nice wood from Lew Gitlow when I was
starting
> out and built my first to weight limited penny planes with it. It
was
> much easier to build and fly the model with good wood. Once you
have a
> feel for this, you can sort wood from your local hobby shop.
>
> > weight and such. Do you store it flat, or on end?
>
> I store it flat.
>
> > 5. Im going to have to buy some tools I think. any suggestions
for:
> > a. Rubber stripper
>
> It's worth it to get a good one.
>
> > b. balsa stripper(have a Master Airscrew, seems only "o.k.")
>
> Ray Harlan's micrometer stripper is a great tool. I use it to cut
> tapered spars. The Jim Jones style stripper (Tim Goldstein makes a
> version, others do too) is great for stripping straight spars. Some
> folks use it for tapers as well. You can also use some bits of razor
> blades to make your own.
>
> > c. gram scale
>
> You want something that weighs 0.01 grams. Some folks like 0.001
gram
> resolution. You might check out police auctions for scales, drug
> dealers often have really high end scales. These get auctioned off
> after the trial. You can also make your own mechanical balance. Ray
> Harlan has a nifty, inexpensive, spring scale, as well as a very
nice
> balance beam.
>
> Get a copy of Lew Gitlow's book. Check on eBay, occasionally a copy
of
> "Building and Flying Indoor Model Airplanes" will show up. If you
can
> get it inexpensively, then do, it's a great resource. also look at
> http://www.indoornews.com/ it has plans and information on the
forum.
> It also has an archive of all of the messages on the old indoor
yahoo
> group.
>
> Another good resource is http://www.IndoorNewsAndViews.com/ the
> website that goes along with the "Indoor News and Views" newsletter.
> INAV is full of articles and plans.
>
> Feel free to ask here, or to ask folks off-line. As you have found,
> folks like John Kagan are happy to help when they have the time.
>
> Marty Sasaki
>
Thanks for the warm welcome and questions answered Marty and Kurt.
I am building heavy. My first Ministick barely hold altitude, but it
help me explore trim some. I was excited to see it do half circles in
my basement. I have 2 Poonkers framed up with 1/32nd spars and ribs.
also anothe Biscayne Baby(was my first one) I have to cover with
kitchen wrap right now, seems light enough though.
The rubber stripper on A2Z site is too pricey for me right now. I did
manage to strip a thin, about 1/32nd from a 1/8th" piece of rubber
with a razor blade for my Biscayne Baby. That was tedious, but worth
while. I'll probably try that again.
I also have 2 Double Whammys framed up with curved ribs. My first one
I ruined when I tried to tighten the tissue with a spritz of water.
(lesson learned!)
I am interested in F1D but I see I need to take some baby steps
first.
Im a career firefighter/paramedic, and I dont have a computer at
home, so I have to surf here at the firehouse, so I can only bother
you guys once every 3 days
Is anyone near Indianapolis, Indiana? I'd sure like to see some of
this first hand. I have statred building some jigs and such for
building props and dihedral. I am having to retool some. Seems
nothing I have for RC is good for this stuff. Balsa at the LHS is
awful, so I am going to have to buy some online. A2Z seems to have
good stuff? What grain and weigh would be good in 1/32nd" for
MInisticks?
Thanks again,
Mark
Received on Tue Feb 05 2008 - 20:17:39 CET