Re: Glue For Indoor Models

From: Tapio Linkosalo <tapio.linkosalo_at_helsinki.fi>
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2007 21:19:18 +0300 (EEST)

On Sun, 10 Jun 2007, Peter Hess wrote:

> For joints that I will not want to adjust - - ribs-to-spars, longerons
> and verticals in fuselages - - I use Pica Gluit (no longer available)
> thinned 50/50 with water. Most of these joints are pre-glued or double
> glued, especially where butt ends are involved. I don't use cellulose
> glues, even thinned and plasticized, for rib-to-spar joints because even
> the slightest shrinkage can induce warps.

> I don't have the problem using Gluit. Plain old Elmers white glue or
> many aliphatic glues will work as well.

Interesting. I used to use aliphatic - SIG Bond that is - but it seems to
get soft in humid conditions. Not usual here in Finland, but the two F1M's
that I had at USIC 2004 felt a bit soft in the JC humidity.

I've since moved to selluloid glues. But, have my doubts too like Peter.
The boron reinforcements on my F1D fuz pulled the tube square, pulling the
tube in at the fibres. Obviously I had used too much of the glue, but
maybe aliphatic would work here better?



-Tapio-
Received on Sun Jun 10 2007 - 11:19:52 CEST