Re: Glue For Indoor Models

From: Peter Hess <hesspl_at_comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2007 12:09:19 -0400

Hey Garry in the Ct Hills:

For joints that I will not want to adjust - - ribs-to-spars, longerons and verticals in fuselages - - I use Pica Gluit (no longer available) thinned 50/50 with water. Most of these joints are pre-glued or double glued, especially where butt ends are involved. I don't use cellulose glues, even thinned and plasticized, for rib-to-spar joints because even the slightest shrinkage can induce warps. Other apparently don't have this problem, but I have thrown away too many EZB stabs to take the risk. I don't have the problem using Gluit. Plain old Elmers white glue or many aliphatic glues will work as well.

For joints that I think I might have to adjust for trimming purposes, especially on MiniStiks, EZBs, and LPPs, I use Ambroid or Sigment thinned at least 50/50 with acetone and plasticized. Joints that I probably will or might want to adjust include: Thrust bearing-to-motor stick); wing post sockets (to adjust CG); wing-to-wing posts (to adjust wash-in/wash-out); boom-to-motor stick (to adjust stab incidence and/or fin offset); and stab-to-boom (to adjust stab tilt and/or turn).

Advice from others will almost certainly differ, but this is what works for me. You might like a different tune.

Peter Hess in the Connecticut Hills
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: gcostanza66
  To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 6:44 PM
  Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Glue For Indoor Models


  Hi:

  Just wanted to ask what is the favored glue for building indoor
  models? I've been out of indoor modeling for about 10 years and the
  only glues I know in R/C are the CA glues which I know are way to
  heavy for indoor models.

  Thanks

  Garry in CT



   

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Received on Sun Jun 10 2007 - 09:15:12 CEST