Re: Re: Taylorcraft flight
Thanks for the info Mike - I think that's an amazing weight for such a large model. With our kit scale rules in the UK, we are not supposed to change the kit design, or reduce wood sections (or if we do, marks are deducted). Nevertheless, it seems like if we use really light wood it should be relatively easy to get way under the 200 gram limit. One final question - did you leave the wing incidence unchanged from the plan? It seems to be set up pretty much zero/zero with the stab, though the raised LE of the wing section does give a bit of effective incidence.
Thanks again,
Mike Stuart
On Saturday, 6 May 2017, 21:09, "mkirda_at_sbcglobal.net [Indoor_Construction]" <Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Well, I made the kit essentially according to the plan.
Everything was made with 5-6# wood. I had a bunch of 5.5# that was used for the fuse and stab and rudder.
The wing, stab and rudder outlines were laminated with three layers of 1/32" thick. The wing outlines could benefit from some more strength, so at least one layer of 7-8#.
Knowing the balance point would be affected by the rubber, I built the front end out of heavier 6-7# wood.
The top of the fuse fairing I used copy paper with a layer of tissue on top (3M77 spray adhesive).
I think I might use light 1/32" if I did this again as it was very prone to denting.
The wing was 3/32" square LE, 3/32" square spar at the top of the Clark Y airfoil, then 3/32" x 1/8" trailing edge. Ribs are 1/32". The struts are functional. I did not build ailerons. I built it to fly left, and there is left wing washin. I still needed more. Covering is all Esaki yellow, with no dope. I might have moved the rubber peg forward one bay. With wood this light, I'd recommend adding 1/64" ply around the rubber peg hole. Just enough so you don't tear it up.
I think about building this one again, but with 3/32" for the fuse instead. I would add diagonals to make it stiffer. One weak spot on the fuse: the verticals below the LE of the wing. Make that out of heavier balsa, like 10-12#. Gussets where needed there too. Then the LE of the wing - Either go to 1/8" square or make the 3/32" a bit heavier.
All that should get it to around 3 oz.
Going lighter would require painted mylar and lighter construction, like 4.5-5# wood. All doable I think.
There was a HPA build thread on it. Maybe we should move any other questions there.
Hope this helps.
Regards.
Mike Kirda #yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120 -- #yiv3963129120ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-mkp #yiv3963129120hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-mkp #yiv3963129120ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-mkp .yiv3963129120ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-mkp .yiv3963129120ad p {margin:0;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-mkp .yiv3963129120ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-sponsor #yiv3963129120ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-sponsor #yiv3963129120ygrp-lc #yiv3963129120hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv3963129120 #yiv3963129120ygrp-sponsor #yiv3963129120ygrp-lc .yiv3963129120ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 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Received on Mon May 08 2017 - 09:47:57 CEST
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