Re: Dihedral Joing Wrinkle Removal Mistake
Isn't there also a paper cement that works well?
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 3, 2014, at 9:46 PM, Jake Palmer <82.jake_at_gmail.com> wrote:
> I wonder if the type of rubber cement plays a role, because I have some ~13 year old intermediate stick wings and the film is still firmly attached.
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 3, 2014 at 9:40 PM, Steve Fujikawa <steve_fujikawa_at_verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> I used to use rubber cement thinned with
>> bestine. But the problem I had was that the bond
>> strength wasn't good after many months and the
>> covering came loose, particularly near the wing
>> posts where there's a lot of flexing. It can be
>> fixed by applying more of the solution, but it
>> was a nuisance. (Just pressing it back down
>> doesn't restore the bond.) I think Brett told me
>> to try thinned 3M77, so I switched to that. It
>> has a much higher bond strength and I never had
>> the covering detach since. The covering will tear before it comes loose.
>>
>>
>>
>> At 12:04 AM 2/4/2014, ykleetx_at_gmail.com wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >I started using the rubber cement diluted with
>> >Bestine for covering, as Jake has described
>> >several times: lightly brush the outline with
>> >the solution, let dry, place on covering, then
>> >re-activate glue using brush dipped in
>> >Bestine. I love this method, especially for covering the prop.
>> >
>> >I decided to use the same solution to remove the
>> >dihedral wrinkles. The wrinkles are gone, but
>> >there are two problem. The big problem is that
>> >the rubber cement remains a little bit tacky and
>> >will stick to other flying surfaces. The second
>> >is that Bestine evaporates quickly, so the
>> >solution does not penetrate as much of the
>> >joint. This means that more of the solution is
>> >needed, which means more weight and more stickiness.
>> >
>> >So don't use thinned rubber cement to remove dihedral wrinkles!
>> >
>
>
Received on Mon Feb 03 2014 - 21:49:10 CET
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:48 CET