Guys,
I have to say that saliva doesn't work for me. It will only hold for a couple of days. I always use highly diluted 3M77 using naphtha. Even then, the film some times loosens after a flying session.
I also have noticed that the wrinkled film will not hold together at all if the film is only slightly loose. In these cases, I just don't worry about it.
-Kang
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "jannis1indoor" <jannis1indoor@...> wrote:
>
> Art,
>
> I make up a solution of water and some spit and just run a brush over the rib at the dihedral joint and this will pull all the loose film together. This how we did to 30-40 years ago with microfilm and it also works with OS film.
>
> Jeff Annis
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "art" <upwind120@> wrote:
> >
> > ...maybe a dumb one.
> >
> > I'm learning how to use good film. I have a new Banks LPP wing and want to use OS on it. I can handle a tailored dihedral joint using Esaki or condenser paper and they come out pretty neat, but this won't be possible (for me, anyway) with film. I have a choice between baggy panels on either, or both, sides of the joint, or making the dihedral break rib flat instead of curved and getting a nice taut job of it. I've noticed that the tip ribs on most indoor planes are flat (Hangar Rats being an exception). Is this for aerodynamic reasons, or structural?? And If the dihedral joint is made the same way would it wreck anything? Is a small area of the wing with a taut flat airfoil worse or better than the same area curved but baggy (which would render the curve uncontrolled)?
> >
> > a.
> >
>
Received on Tue Aug 27 2013 - 19:17:07 CEST
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:48 CET