Thanks. Sounds like a good way to get by with my current supply of wood.
Good luck in all your flying. May all the bounces go your way.
James Alderson
To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From: leop_at_lyradev.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 02:38:57 +0000
Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: F1M Design
I am not an F1M builder but I have found that if one uses boron fibers on the top and bottom of the wing spars, average, but light, balsa can be used effectively to make stiff wings on similar planes.
Leo P
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, William Gowen <wdgowen_at_...> wrote:
>
> My model is 32.5" OA. I think 30" would be fine. I've used .030" carbon
> tubes for wing spars and had pretty good luck with them. My current
> model uses balsa spars about 040" x 040" with a .010" carbon rod glued
> to the balsa top and bottom. These are stiffer and lighter than the
> carbon tubes.
>
> Aki (3 world records) and Larry Coslick (2 AMA National records) use
> built-up props and do well with them. I use sheet balsa blades.
>
> On 4/20/2013 6:18 PM, James Alderson wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for your quick response! I am rather new to duration events.
> > Actually, I'd like to keep the length shorter so I can allow more
> > weight for the flying surfaces. I do not have the best wood to work
> > with so getting sufficient wing spars to weight is challenging for
> > me. I did that with my recent F1L and it seemed to work out okay.
> >
> > I will go with a fixed prop for starters. What about a built-up prop
> > rather than sheet blades to reduce nose weight?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > James
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> > From: grrd_moore_at_...
> > Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 21:18:13 +0100
> > Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] F1M Design
> >
> > I'm guessing that the length restriction is for practical
> > transportation reasons? There is no limit other than span and weight
> > for F1m.
> > Also I guess you will be using a vp prop?
> > You can easily build the model underweight and ballast the tailboom to
> > get the cg in the right place then ballast on the cg if necessary to
> > get the model weight correct.
> > You could also make the model longer by using an additional tail
> > stinger to the end to the end of the tailboom. This would require less
> > ballast and allow more strength to be built into the structure.
> >
> >
> > --- On *Sat, 20/4/13, aldershine /<aldershine_at_...>/* wrote:
> >
> >
> > From: aldershine <aldershine_at_...>
> > Subject: [Indoor_Construction] F1M Design
> > To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Saturday, 20 April, 2013, 16:51
> >
> > I just read the thread of posts for F1M on Hip Pocket. Our club
> > will be adding that event for next indoor season at our Cat II
> > site in Albany, OR. We plan to fly 1/4 motors, no touch.
> >
> > Is there a way to keep the overall fuselage length under 30" and
> > keep the CG rearward enough? For my first model I am thinking of a
> > traditional design with dihedral, no tip plates and single fin.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > James Alderson
> > Willamette Modeler's Club
> >
> >
> >
>
Received on Sat Apr 20 2013 - 20:24:19 CEST
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:47 CET