Thanks for your quick response! I am rather new to duration events. Actually, I'd like to keep the length shorter so I can allow more weight for the flying surfaces. I do not have the best wood to work with so getting sufficient wing spars to weight is challenging for me. I did that with my recent F1L and it seemed to work out okay.
I will go with a fixed prop for starters. What about a built-up prop rather than sheet blades to reduce nose weight?
Thanks,
James
To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
From: grrd_moore_at_yahoo.co.uk
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 21:18:13 +0100
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] F1M Design
I'm guessing that the length restriction is for practical transportation reasons? There is no limit other than span and weight for F1m.
Also I guess you will be using a vp prop?
You can easily build the model underweight and ballast the tailboom to get the cg in the right place then ballast on the cg if necessary to get the model weight correct.
You could also make the model longer by using an additional tail stinger to the end to the end of the tailboom. This would require less ballast and allow more strength to be built into the structure.
--- On Sat, 20/4/13, aldershine <aldershine_at_hotmail.com> wrote:
From: aldershine <aldershine_at_hotmail.com>
Subject: [Indoor_Construction] F1M Design
To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, 20 April, 2013, 16:51
I just read the thread of posts for F1M on Hip Pocket. Our club will be adding that event for next indoor season at our Cat II site in Albany, OR. We plan to fly 1/4 motors, no touch.
Is there a way to keep the overall fuselage length under 30" and keep the CG rearward enough? For my first model I am thinking of a traditional design with dihedral, no tip plates and single fin.
Thanks,
James Alderson
Willamette Modeler's Club
Received on Sat Apr 20 2013 - 15:18:26 CEST