The cheaper draw plates often have two problems. The heat treatment can leave a crusty material inside the holes which may not be cleaned out. If this is present, one needs to carefully clean the holes with steel wire of the appropriate size. A more serious problem is the surfacing of the plate. The edges of the holes need to be sharp to shave off the wood rather than just compressing the wood into a round shape. The cheaper draw plates often have hole edges that are rounded a bit in the cleaning process after the heat treatment. This does not mater when drawing wire (for resizing) as the wire goes into the hole through the chamfered side of the plate. The solution is to have the back side of the draw plate ground on a surface grinder at a local machine shop. This makes for sharp edges on the back side of the holes that shave the wood nicely.
One can also make one's own draw plate. Using fractional and number size drills, one can drill a series of decreasing size holes in a steel plate. The back side of such holes will have a burr if one drills without a backing plate or other support. This burr shaves the wood nicely. This homemade plate can substitute for a purchased draw plate, especially if one first sands the to the approximate size (perhaps using a tool like Ray Harlan described). For example, a 1/8" thick by 1" wide steel strip can be purchased at a local hardware store. Homemade draw plates like this have worked well for the past seven years for local Science Olympiad students.
LP
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, LeRoy C Cordes <lcordes@...> wrote:
>
> Rey, I just ordered an 82 hole drawplate from Ebay for $6.79 with free
> shipping
> http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?BinConfirm&_trksid=p2047675.l1356&
> rev=9&item=140848662839&fromPage=2047675&quantity=1&fb=1
>
> LeRoy Cordes YOLO
> Chicago, Illinois
> AMA 16974 - WAA Pilot #337
> In God We Trust
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 09:40:10 -0500 (EST) Rey Mazzocco <aprivpilot_at_...>
> writes:
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> I also have trouble making my round posts consistent in diameter. Is
> there an easier way to do this besides rolling between sanding blocks?
> I've thought of using a drawplate, similar to this:
> http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-draw-plate,6942.html (which I don't
> have). I may try square posts using 1/16" sq brass tubing as a mandrel
> for the paper tubes. I know I can cut and shape consistent square posts.
>
>
> Rey
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Gowen <wdgowen_at_...>
> To: Indoor_Construction <Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thu, Mar 7, 2013 11:25 am
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Wing Tube Mounting
>
>
>
> Nice Rey!
>
>
> On 3/6/2013 11:26 PM, aprivpilot wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Thanks for posting this, Bill. Just what I needed to make a fiddly job
> (for me) a lot easier.
>
> Rey
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Indoor_Construction/photos/album/1944973591
> /pic/1818506490/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=
> asc
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, William Gowen wrote:
> >
> > Well JP a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. (I just
> made
> > that up)
> >
> > On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 8:16 PM, J P Kish wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > **
> > > Hey Bill, when you make things this simple, you take the "mystique"
> out of
> > > the "difficult challenge" of indoor. Thanks!
> > > jp
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > *From:* Bill
> > > *To:* Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> > > *Sent:* Monday, March 04, 2013 12:24 PM
> > > *Subject:* [Indoor_Construction] Re: Wing Tube Mounting
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I put a picture of my tube attachment jig in my photo album. Here's
> the
> > > link:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Indoor_Construction/photos/album/1791606911
> /pic/2135511843/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=
> asc
> > >
> > > The posts are 1/16" brass tubes which is the size I use for paper
> tubes
> > > and wing and stab posts. The brass tube on the left is attached to
> the
> > > base. The one on the right is attached to a balsa slider. There are
> > > aluminum tubes at the bottom of the brass tubes that I use to push
> the
> > > paper tubes off after they are glued to the wing or stab.
> > >
> > > I put the paper tubes on the brass tubes at the top of the brass
> tubes.
> > > Then I put the wing or stab between the brass tubes and adjust the
> slider
> > > to put a little bit of pressure on the wing or stab. For small parts
> this
> > > is usually enough to hols the part while I glue the tubes. For larger
> parts
> > > I will prop up the wing or stab to get it aligned.
> > >
> > > When everything looks right I use a small amount of glue to tack the
> tubes
> > > to the wing or stab. When that is dry I add more glue. When the
> gluing is
> > > finished I use the aluminum tubes to push the paper tubes off of the
> brass
> > > posts.
> > >
> > > The whole jig takes about 10 minutes to build and has been in use for
> > > several years.
> > >
> > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "LeRoy Cordes" wrote:
> > > Does anyone have a trick or two to make the operation easy and
> consistent?
> > > LeRoy Cordes
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
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>
>
>
> LeRoy Cordes YOLO
> Chicago, Illinois
> AMA 16974 - WAA Pilot #337
> In God We Trust
> ____________________________________________________________
> How to Sleep Like a Rock
> Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night.
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>
Received on Sun Mar 10 2013 - 13:40:14 CET