I'll do a full post on my VP mechanism as I build it. I started with the
yoke because I already had the carbon for it.
Also I was thinking about how to add a tube to your mechanism yesterday and
I have a pretty simple way to do it. I'm going to drill a .020 hole in the
end of a piece of a short piece 1/8" square balsa. Then I'll insert and
glue the .020 carbon rod into that hole. After that I'll chuck the carbon
rod into a pin vise and chuck the pin vise into my drill press. I'm going
to use it like a lathe to sand down the balsa to the diameter I want. I'm
planning to buy some .064 ID polyimide tubing so I'll aim for that
diameter. I think this will work.
On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 8:06 AM, Yuan Kang Lee <ykleetx_at_gmail.com> wrote:
> **
>
>
> Mike and Jake,
>
> It would be great if you guys share with us your build progress of the
> carbon VP on Hip Pocket. I don't plan to build another VP until after Kent.
>
> -Kang
>
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" <ykleetx_at_...>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > You can attach a tube to the "spar rod" to allow you an easier retrofit
> of the prop blade. I didn't for two reason -- first the weight reason.
> Second, aligning the tubes would require a lot of work, in addition to the
> work of aligning the completed prop after the prop blades are inserted.
> >
> > But what I have done on the first prototype makes attaching prop blades
> a challenge, to say the least. Attaching the spar to the the spar rod
> before the prop outline/ribs are built will be easier.
> >
> > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" <ykleetx_at_>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Brown, Kagan, Richmond, Cailliau, Schramm, ... don't use tubes.
> > >
> > > Who's old fashioned, modern, and post-modern?
> > >
> > > I agree that retrofitting a prop with different blades is a good
> feature. However, I don't think doing so at the flying site (during a
> contest) is the right thing. Retro-fitting should be a planned activity,
> IMO. I don't carry around back-up prop blades. If I had back-up prop
> blades, I would build another VP hub and complete the unit and test the
> unit as a whole.
> > >
> > > When I attach the blades, I make sure that the whole prop is aligned.
> The prop alignment is adjustable because I use Ambroid (with kevlar and
> tissue) to attach the prop spar to the carbon "spar rod".
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "mkirda_at_" <mkirda@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Call me old-fashioned, but I want a tissue tube in there somewhere...
> > > >
> > > > Seems too easy for a blade to get slightly misaligned with no way to
> adjust. Also if a blade breaks, I want to have spares available that I
> could easily add. (After breaking two prop blades last night, I see a lot
> of advantages to this.)
> > > >
> > > > Regards.
> > > > Mike Kirda
> > > >
> > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee"
> <ykleetx_at_> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Gary,
> > > > >
> > > > > > What keeps the .020 carbon rod from sliding out
> > > > > > of the .020/.040 tube? Is it the .011 rod in the .015 hole?
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes.
> > > > >
> > > > > > the prop spar is glued into the .020 carbon rod.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, the prop spar needs to be attached to the .020 carbon rod and
> the .011 rod. There are several ways to do this, and I will take some time
> to explain in better detail in the next couple of days. For now, here is
> the quick description, including how the sparless blade is constructed.
> > > > >
> > > > > A Blade Construction
> > > > >
> > > > > - form outline (wet) with twist on prop block 1
> > > > > - on another prop block 2, put down double sided tape along a
> trace of the outline
> > > > > - place dried outline with twist on block 2, using double sided
> tape to hold the outline down
> > > > > - put in temporary straight ribs
> > > > > - apply boron to first side
> > > > > - remove outline carefully from prop block, place outline with
> boron side down on block
> > > > > - apply boron to second side
> > > > > - replace temporary straight ribs with real ribs
> > > > >
> > > > > B cover
> > > > >
> > > > > C glue on spar
> > > > >
> > > > > D put on VP hub
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm experimenting with orders of steps B,C,D. One way is C,B,D.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another way is (a la Steve Brown):
> > > > >
> > > > > - glue prop spar to 020 rod and 011 lever arm before assembling VP
> hub
> > > > > - assemble VP hub
> > > > > - build outline/ribs on VP hub + spar assembly
> > > > > - cover
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Warthodson_at_ wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kang,
> > > > > > Thanks for posting the VP hub photos & text. The diagrams &
> dimensions were especially helpful. As I understand it, the prop spar is
> glued into the .020 carbon rod. What keeps the .020 carbon rod from sliding
> out of the .020/.040 tube? Is it the .011 rod in the .015 hole?
> > > > > > Gary Hodson
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: Yuan Kang Lee <ykleetx_at_>
> > > > > > To: Indoor_Construction <Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > Sent: Wed, Mar 6, 2013 10:06 am
> > > > > > Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: carbon VP hub data?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I look forward to your feedback -- how it can be constructed
> simpler, alternate materials, etc.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The hub is strong and light, at 70 mg. It should withstand the
> impact of an exploding motor.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There is one kink to be worked out. Although the hub's action is
> very smooth when you work it in your hand, in flight, I believe there is
> some binding. In a normal flight, this means that the return to low pitch
> happens in jumps. I heard it pop into low pitch this past weekend in the
> F1D contests. The flight result was still very good -- I flew a 14:45 with
> a half motor at 25'.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The big problem happens when the prop hits the ceiling,
> obstructions, or when the model is steered from the front. The VP goes into
> low pitch and is stuck there -- this happened when I flew in Atlanta. At
> Torrance, I flew no touch, so this problem was not detrimental to the final
> result.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > When I started building VP's back in October last year, I built
> one or two of every existing type to better understand how they work. Two
> things struck me -- the existing VP hubs require precise fit of components,
> and the wire hinge was the smoothest. These observations led to this VP
> hub, which uses a modified wire hinge and does not require a precise fit.
> (I'll go into this later.)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I was mostly excited when I thought that this VP hub may be
> accessible to everyone. I guess we'll have to see about that.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I want to extend this design to F1M / Pennyplane and any larger
> and heavier indoor models. I hope this would encourage more people to fly
> VP's indoor. I have espoused before that indoor flying in a low ceiling gym
> using a VP is the "ultimate". It allows gentle flying of our models, and
> brings maximum enjoyment if indoor flying.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -Kang
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Nick Ray wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hello Everyone,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The INAV site has been updated with an article on Kang's hub.
> I want to
> > > > > > > thank Kang for putting that together for us so quickly.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > http://indoornewsandviews.wordpress.com/
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Nick
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
Received on Thu Mar 07 2013 - 08:29:41 CET