How do I put my order in?
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Kevin Lamers <kevin.lamers@...> wrote:
>
> 6-7 mg:
>
>
>
> 2013/3/6 Yuan Kang Lee <ykleetx_at_...>
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > If you can make the screw holder (a la Treger) 10 mg, I would like to buy
> > some from you.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -Kang
> >
> >
> > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > >
> > > I was confused why you were talking about the "carbon yoke", when I was
> > talking about the screw holder. Then I realize that you are calling it
> > "yoke" because of its shape.
> > >
> > > In VP hub terminology, the "yoke" referred to the the "drive arm" in
> > Steve Brown's article.
> > >
> > > We should call the screw holder "screw holder."
> > >
> > > -Kang
> > >
> > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "mkirda@" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Making the carbon yoke is easy enough, Kang.
> > > > I was planning to make some new hubs as they are now the weakest part
> > of my F1D program IMO. It would be easy enough to make a half-round rather
> > than V groove when making the form.
> > > >
> > > > One issue I have had in the past with using the .005" carbon uni cloth
> > is after drilling, the part between the screws tended to delaminate. I
> > thought that two layers of the .003 carbon but at maybe 20 degree angles
> > would eliminate this. A touch heavier perhaps.
> > > > Alternatively, a small strip of 0.6 oz fiberglass could be overlayed
> > during the layup. Given that I have 0.005" carbon and 0.6 oz fiberglass, I
> > will probably try that first with the Rohacell I have (and haven't tried
> > yet.)
> > > >
> > > > Might be next week before I can get to it.
> > > >
> > > > Regards.
> > > > Mike Kirda
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike,
> > > > >
> > > > > The two screw holders are separate only for convenience of the first
> > prototype. Each has to be glued to the "hub" of the VP, then tied with
> > Kevlar. Next version will have the screw holders all on the left side of
> > the hub.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm interested if you could vacuum form one a la Treger. Can you
> > think how to make one? We could also think about kitting this design.
> > Interested?
> > > > >
> > > > > I have not tried a lubricant other than my rubber lube :)
> > > > >
> > > > > The "hub" is an off-the-shelf carbon tube.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "mkirda@" wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Just a few questions, Kang.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Why the two arms for screws rather than the yoke arrangement ala
> > Treger?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Regarding the 'binding', did you use lubricant already?
> > > > > > Silicon? Oil? Graphite?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I assume your carbon bar has holes at the end rather than slots?
> > And the holes are used to retain the blades in the hub? How do you attach
> > the blades?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Neat design in many ways, especially if binding isn't that much of
> > an issue.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Regards.
> > > > > > Mike Kirda
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I look forward to your feedback -- how it can be constructed
> > simpler, alternate materials, etc.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The hub is strong and light, at 70 mg. It should withstand the
> > impact of an exploding motor.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > There is one kink to be worked out. Although the hub's action is
> > very smooth when you work it in your hand, in flight, I believe there is
> > some binding. In a normal flight, this means that the return to low pitch
> > happens in jumps. I heard it pop into low pitch this past weekend in the
> > F1D contests. The flight result was still very good -- I flew a 14:45 with
> > a half motor at 25'.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The big problem happens when the prop hits the ceiling,
> > obstructions, or when the model is steered from the front. The VP goes into
> > low pitch and is stuck there -- this happened when I flew in Atlanta. At
> > Torrance, I flew no touch, so this problem was not detrimental to the final
> > result.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > When I started building VP's back in October last year, I built
> > one or two of every existing type to better understand how they work. Two
> > things struck me -- the existing VP hubs require precise fit of components,
> > and the wire hinge was the smoothest. These observations led to this VP
> > hub, which uses a modified wire hinge and does not require a precise fit.
> > (I'll go into this later.)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I was mostly excited when I thought that this VP hub may be
> > accessible to everyone. I guess we'll have to see about that.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I want to extend this design to F1M / Pennyplane and any larger
> > and heavier indoor models. I hope this would encourage more people to fly
> > VP's indoor. I have espoused before that indoor flying in a low ceiling gym
> > using a VP is the "ultimate". It allows gentle flying of our models, and
> > brings maximum enjoyment if indoor flying.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -Kang
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Nick Ray wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hello Everyone,
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The INAV site has been updated with an article on Kang's hub.
> > I want to
> > > > > > > > thank Kang for putting that together for us so quickly.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > http://indoornewsandviews.wordpress.com/
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Nick
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
Received on Wed Mar 06 2013 - 11:38:28 CET