Re: Glue technique - building

From: Mark F1diddler <f1diddler_at_yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 01:25:13 -0000

--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "LeRoy Cordes" wrote:
<<I often wish that I could sit and watch some of you put a model together.>>

In many cases, it's more improvisational than you imagine. Sometimes the glue is running thin, so that requires at least one preglue before attach attempt. Or sometimes the wood is 6 lb instead of 4 lb, so that may ask for an additional application, or slightly thicker glue, meaning thicker than 50/50 or whatever worked before. Sometimes the glue in bottle has thickened, and laziness implies to just use smaller glue ball if you don't feel like adding any acetone. Etc, etc. I apply glue with a 28 gauge hypodermic needle, but a skilled toothpick can work just as well in many cases.

Maybe the most important aspect is to master any preferred delivery system that pokes some amount of glue exactly where the joint is going to be, with no more glue than intended. And if it doesn't seem to hold, then another application exactly where the joint is going to be. I imagine the true experts with glue application sometimes have joints that are a little weaker than the surrounding wood, but mine are always usually too beefy.

 <<do you thin the glue to watery consistency, assemble the parts and just place a drop of glue on top of the joint,>>

That can work well for tiny joints, such as ribs on built-up prop outline.

<<or do you place a drop of glue on, say the wing rib end, and put it into place against the front spar >>

Also yes.

<<and try to "bend" the end glued ribs into place?

No, unless you don't mind the variable results.
MB
Received on Sat Jan 12 2013 - 17:25:14 CET

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