Looks like I also get the 2nd post of 2013 ...
Back to prop construction, this bit was also described by Steve Brown on HPA in Mike's F1D construction thread:
"They have related this additional technique: it helps to build the prop outline as shown, glue to the spar, except at the hub. Bind the outline to the block with threads or pins/blocks (taking care not to crush the wood)...then cut the glue joint where the two outline ends meet at the hub. Don't glue this location to the spar until later. Insert pins in the block to maintain the locations and shape of the outline ends before cutting. Then soften the glue joints between the ribs and the spar just enough to "relax" the joints. "
... soften the glue joints between the ribs and the spar just enough to relax the joints ...
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" <ykleetx@...> wrote:
>
> Hey, this is the first post of 2013!
>
> I read in Lew Gitlow's book last night that when making a built-up prop -- he covers the prop flat (outline and rib only), wets the outline, then glues the covered outline with ribs to the spar on the prop block. Lew mentions that he uses wood glue to glue the ribs to the spar in order to prevent damage to the cover. Also, he uses a built-up prop block that is mostly hollow so he can get to the rib to spar joints from underneath the prop.
>
> Lew's process is similar to what Mike did when he reset the prop pitch.
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "mkirda@" <mkirda@> wrote:
> >
> > Yes, it actually works out quite well.
> >
> > Regards.
> > Mike Kirda
> >
> > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Yuan Kang Lee" <ykleetx@> wrote:
> > >
> > > That's a great tip, Mike. I'm assuming that the covering is still on while you "re-pitch" the prop?
> >
>
Received on Wed Jan 02 2013 - 12:10:31 CET
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:47 CET