Re: what is difficult in building indoor duration

From: Geoffrey Lefever <geoffreylefever_at_googlemail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:35:07 +0100

 

 

It is necessary to soak the outline in the usual way. There is no way to get
around the tip if boron is attached first. When dry I place the

outline on the pitch block which has the blade outline and rib locations . I
glue a photocopy of the prop outline onto the block cutting it

into ½ inch strips to get around the block curvature. I used a candle to
avoid the outline becoming glued to the paper . For the three thou

boron I preglued by running the filament between thumb and first finger with
Duco. I use thin strips of Scothboy paper tape around ¼ inch

width to fix the outline in place and then move them around to also hold in
place the section already boroned. I find that about ½ inch at

a time is possible and I use greatly diluted Duco. I don’t think there is
any way to prevent the outline becoming lightly glued to the pitch

block. This does not appear to matter and may be helpful. The wonderful
thing about paper tape is that it just drops off with a spot of

solvent or thinners. After the first side is boroned just lift off the
block ,turn over and repeat. The stiffness will not be apparent until the
ribs

are in place. Boron top and bottrom the second or third rib where the stub
spar ends. I have not stiffened the other ribs. My covered blades

weigh 0.090 gm each and the assembly with an Ivan hub weighs 0.28 gm.
Perhaps a touch heavy. I hope to see how well the prop performs

in the next day or two. Geoffrey
Received on Fri Oct 12 2012 - 10:35:12 CEST