Hi, Gary. This seems to fall into the "why fix it if it ain't broke?; or, your mileage may vary" category. Aside from the conflicting information of the similar situations you allude to, individual preference can influence success.
I remember old discussions regarding the "sharp" edges of cut o-rings. At the same time, Wally Miller mentioned melting his cut O-rings slightly in an oven to smooth the edges--mini baked cookies; or, bagels he colored with markers. Coslick was using cheap cotton ear swabs for EZB 0-rings, I believe.
For me, the ear swabs broke; the sharp edges *did* cut and nick the rubber; and by the time I heard Wally mention his oven trick I no longer used any o-rings. The majority of motors then broke well inside the loop. I figured the max of twenty turns lost at loop ends were better than the weight of the rings.
Heat-shrink tube (un-shrunk) success is dependent on the necessary diameter for a tight fit over shafts and hook; and temperment. Finding the right size is the first problem. Silicone tube is flexible. Getting the things to stay on the wires while holding a model and fully wound motor safely during install is the real challenge for me.
I see these solutions to knotting/bunching and motor mounting/removal being added hazards and weight. Their value depends on consistent success, which I did not have.
'Your mileage will probably vary from mine.'
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Warthodson@... wrote:
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> Not long ago, several people mentioned that they thought sleeves made from plastic straws cut their motors & that they use heat shrink tubing. I am interested in knowing why heat shrink tubing would not do the same think & do you actually shrink the tubing or just use it as is? Also, on a related subject, I use hard plastic tubing to cut o-rings out of. I read a long time ago that the sharp edge on this type of o-ring does NOT cut the rubber. Is this still the current thinking? If not, what are you using for o-rings?
> Gary
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Received on Sun Feb 26 2012 - 09:28:01 CET
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