OK...you haven't seen my fingers either...I might as well use clubs to
build with. If I drop a pin I have to get a magnet. The first real EZB I
built was the Hobby Shopper under Tim's pushing. He gave me everything I
needed...the directions...and I built jigs, forms, tools and everything. I did
all the right things with the bending gages, you name it. I made a feeble
attempt to document it in the Max-Out. To me building an indoor ship was
building a model that flew inside and not outside.
The first time I flew it I thought I did rather
well..considering....considering I probably doubled it's weight with glue from fixing by the time it
had made 10 flights. Watching Kang fly in Colo Springs made me a true
believer that there are some people who can do this...I believe I can again
too..given another bunch of free time! I did figure out that after being an
outdoor builder for 55 some odd years...indoor is a special animal if you do
it right. You have to re-think things. But it will improve your skills.
The steps to start with a P-24..then to a penny...then A6 and then EZB is
logical. I built the EZB first, then the penny and then the A6. I'm not
sure that was logical, but I did learn a lot. My next step is to not try to
prepare 2 weeks before a contest! And, I have had some great folks to
watch and ask questions of...Don D, Bill Leppard, Kang, John Kagan, Bill
Gowen...it's good to see what the state of the art can do. Doing it? I defer
to the club fingers.
It's magic......and pretty magic it is!
Rick Pangell
Editor of "The Max-Out" Newsletter of
The Magnificent Mountain Men FF Club of Colorado
In a message dated 10/3/2011 1:19:35 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
brucemccrory_at_ymail.com writes:
Rick P. wrote: "And, how do you guys build that light? I am impressed."
Rick,
Didn't you process some of Tim Goldstein's Tru-Weight balsa that he cut,
6, 7 years ago? The rage was to find balsa that would bend and snap back to
original shape, and hold hammers without bending. Once you have this
outrageously strong wood with an MOE to match, you can start building really
light. (Yes, some indoorists will disagree with this pre-requisite.)
I built an under 260mg A-ROG, using reject cuts from under 500mg EZB
building efforts. Building light required a mind set, on my part, to do the
task. The target weight was 300mg. Plus same for motor. It was not to be braced.
My weighing scale was limited to 0.01g, so I weighed mulitple copies of
each part and averaged. Never new the total weight until it was finished.
Even then, there was a substantial +/-, due to humidity and scale accuracy. I
tested parts for about a dozen models, to get the stiffest and strongest
(and lighest) parts. Once covered with y2k2, I could not breathe directly
onto those parts; and many of the bones, prior to covering.
There were two "go-by" models I used for material sizing guides. Both were
braced models: Jim Richmond's difficult to trim model, and Louka's, which
I copeid. However, I sized parts based on final support of 600mg. I stabbed
built wing frames into the weighing scale to make sure each half resisted
0.3g with reasonable deflection. One of the last things I did was crack the
wing spars for a 3rd set of polyhedral. It strengthened the spars and
reduced fatigue bending during flight. The motor tube collapsed at more than
.1in-oz during the first competitive attempt, so that was a limit. The
highest time was 20+ minutes at Kibbie.
It survived about a dozen launches, until stress fractures crippled
flights.
From: "themaxout_at_aol.com" <themaxout_at_aol.com>
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Received on Mon Oct 03 2011 - 13:36:27 CEST