Re: Plastic prop help

From: jabiruchick <jabiruchick_at_yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 09 May 2011 23:47:32 -0000

It's an old Comet Puss Moth. I'll try to put a photo of it in my photo album here on the site.

The airframe with aluminum rear motor peg is 4.2g. The prop with shaft and nose block is 2.3g. Ugh! It dives in the glide, but I haven't flown it under power yet.

I single covered the wing and stab according to the plan, per original Dime Scale rules. I see now that "pseudo-dime" might be run at the contest, which calls for double covering on all new designs. I'll bring my old standby Stinson just in case I can't compete with the Puss Moth, but my goal is to break 2 minutes with a cabin model, contest or not!

That's a great link to prop carving instructions. Might have to give that a try.

KT


--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "John Kagan" <john_kagan@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "jabiruchick" <jabiruchick@> wrote:
> >
> > Wow! Well I will keep scraping the Peck and see what I can get it down to. I could deal with 1 gram. It's tedious and messy but oh well, so are most things in this hobby!
> >
> > Sorry if my original post was unclear. IF you are using a plastic prop, FAC requires it to be "molded" one piece to stay within the old-timey spirit. Otherwise hand carved or machine cut wood is OK. I've never carved a solid wood prop before and time is ticking, so I was hoping to find a lightweight plastic prop that meets the one-piece MOLDED requirement.
> >
>
> I don't know of any molded props that come light enough. They don't even make the one we used to get with the P-24 kits anymore, and that was only sort of light.
>
> If you know the process, carving a decent wood prop is pretty quick and easy. Google "carve wood propeller" for a bunch of descriptions, including this one: http://www.keveney.com/prop2.html
>
> I agree w/ Fred, scraping plastic props is a PITA. The wood scraper I got from either Wayne Johnson or from Woodcrafters helped. A single edge razor seemed to work, too. I use a dremel with a sanding drum to fix up the root area.
>
> Balsa is just easier to work with, IMO.
>
Received on Mon May 09 2011 - 16:47:34 CEST

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