I'm quite happy with my calculator modification to my cheapo yellow
winder. I usually just count cranks and watch torque but could just as
easily count turns in the rubber if I wished. Counting backoffs though
is a bit different but doable, if desired.
LeRoy Cordes YOLO
Chicago, Illinois
AMA 16974
In God We Trust
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 18:36:32 -0000 "art" <aholt11552_at_bellsouth.net>
writes:
> On a couple of my early winders I used a cheap counter which would
> only accept a 12Hz input (and had a lot of other things wrong with
> it, too), so I made a 2-magnet rotor and put it on the crank shaft.
> The fastest I could crank was 3 rpm so that fed 6Hz to the counter
> and you simply multiplied your readout by 10. Joshua felt it was
> important to him to have an exact number, so I sought out the 7111,
> which costed $34 net rather than $18 plus indeterminate shipping
> charges for the cheap one. It was a much easier installation, plus
> it has many useful features, that the flier can use or not, as he
> wishes.
>
> With the present setup, every turn appears in the little window, and
> if you put in 2000 and then release the crank and let them all run
> out at top speed, it registers "0", no more, no less.
>
> Phedon mentioned that the tapedeck counters only register to "999".
> Of course it's a moot point, but I think the flier would be able to
> feel the difference between 999, 1999, and 2999. If you're using an
> antique (or a clone) with an analog counter, you need to feel the
> difference between 1750 and 2250 for example, which isn't as easy.
>
> Art.
>
>
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>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Bill Gowen"
> <wdgowen_at_...> wrote:
> >
> > I agree on all points.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: ray_harlan
> > To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 9:13 AM
> > Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Winders
> >
> >
> >
> > I forgot to mention that I much prefer the counter to count
> input cranks. With a 20:1 or 10:1 winder, it is trivial to figure
> the actual turns. I don't even record actual turns in my notes, just
> input turns. When you are winding, you don't say to yourself 20, 40
> 60 80 100 ..., you say 1,2 3,4 5... One very important lesson I
> learned as soon as I had a counter on my winder was that I couldn't
> count! By the time I had 70 or 80 cranks in, I was off by 1 or 2.
> The problem persists even today.
> >
> > Ray
> >
> > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Phedon Tsiknopoulos
> <phedon21t_at_> wrote:
> > >
> > > Most of those counters have 3 digits. I have the mini-cassette
> type., also 3
> > > digits, and it counts input since it only goes to 999 turns.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: ray_harlan <rbharlan_at_>
> > > To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Tue, March 15, 2011 6:38:22 AM
> > > Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Winders
> > >
> > > Â
> > > You can go with either pitch. There's not a lot of difference.
> Aluminum gears
> > > will require some lube. But you would like a very free winder,
> so a Ministick
> > > motor will unwind almost all the way by itself. Lube will add
> viscous drag and
> > > slow it dowm. Using plastic spur gears and brass or stainless
> pinions will work
> > > better. 60 tooth spur gears and 12 and 15 tooth pinions will
> get 20:1. You can
> > > get machined Delrin gears from places like PIC and Berg, here
> in the US. There
> > > must be comparable places in EU.
> > >
> > >
> > > I don't think the adjustable plate idea is very practival. How
> do you adjust
> > > both sides the same? It would be easier to make a new pair of
> side plates. If
> > > you Loctite the bearings in, you could get away with using a
> reamer to get the
> > > final hole size. But the whole process should be: drill with
> undersize drill.
> > > Use an undersize end mill (a regrind) to get hole location,
> better than a drill.
> > > Use a .0005" oversize reamer to get final hole size. Do the
> two plates together,
> > > of course. These can be held together with standoffs and put
> inside an
> > > enclosure. This is what Bob Wilder did.
> > >
> > > I was going to build winders years ago, but never got going.
> The counters that I
> > > liked were tiny mechanical counters from tape decks. They were
> cheap and
> > > plentiful. They counted up and down with no fuss. Now, I can't
> find them
> > > anywhere on the web. No one needs tape decks.
> > >
> > > Ray
> > >
> > > --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Tapio Linkosalo
> > > <tapio.linkosalo_at_> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks, Ray and others, for a bunch of good comments and
> ideas to work
> > > > on. My stack of questions is not, however, finished, but
> rather keeps
> > > > stacking up....
> > > >
> > > > On 14.3.2011 20:00, ray_harlan wrote:
> > > > > For ball bearings, a "suitably large hole" would have a
> tolerance on the
> > > > > order of .0002", not something you get with a drill. The
> holes are
> > > > > drilled undersize and then bored to size. You can increase
> this
> > > > > tolerance a bit, if you Loctite the bearings in, instead
> of pressing
> > > > > them. But anything over .001" could lead to sloppy gear
> mesh. As Art
> > > > > points out, the most important thing is the center
> distance between two
> > > > > gears. Too close and they bind; too far, and they get
> ratty. A 32 pitch
> > > > > is pretty good for any indoor winding. Class of gears also
> is important,
> > > > > but you don't need super gears. Most nylon or Delrin gears
> are molded
> > > > > and fit in one of the lower classes. They still should be
> fine and are
> > > > > what A2Z uses. Phenolic gears are machined and are quiet
> like nylon.
> > > >
> > > > I was considering aluminium gears from ServoCity for the
> strength, but
> > > > maybe plastics would be strong enough? Is deldrin/acetal
> molded or
> > > > machined? From the price I gather molded?
> > > >
> > > > Does gear size affect the gear friction? Is 32 pitch coarser
> (to rotate)
> > > > than 48 pitch? What to go for?
> > > >
> > > > > If you make a winder, it would be best to mock it up using
> a milling
> > > > > machine with a digital readout and fiddling with center
> distances until
> > > > > the mesh feels good (just outside of binding). Two plates
> on standoffs
> > > > > works fine.
> > > >
> > > > Another idea: attach the gears to smaller plates that attach
> to the main
> > > > body with a couple of screws in oval holes. This way you can
> loosen the
> > > > screws, slide the axis until gear distance is good, then
> tighten the
> > > > screws and secure with loctite. If there is a sub-plate in
> between the
> > > > main plates (as in Arts' winders) the input and output axes
> can be in
> > > > line with each other, and if the gears for the first and
> second phase
> > > > are similar (same number of teeth, then it will suffice to
> move the
> > > > intermediate axis....
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -Tapio-
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
LeRoy Cordes YOLO
Chicago, Illinois
AMA 16974
In God We Trust
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Received on Fri Mar 18 2011 - 06:29:07 CET