In the future I will be able to offer winders of any ratio with 5-digit
mechanical counters with very visible numbers for $150. All possible other
features will be included, Ciao, Phedon
________________________________
From: Bill Gowen <wdgowen_at_gmail.com>
To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 6:16:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Winders
I agree on all points.
----- Original Message -----
>From: ray_harlan
>To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 9:13 AM
>Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Winders
>
>
>I forgot to mention that I much prefer the counter to count input cranks. With a
>20:1 or 10:1 winder, it is trivial to figure the actual turns. I don't even
>record actual turns in my notes, just input turns. When you are winding, you
>don't say to yourself 20, 40 60 80 100 ..., you say 1,2 3,4 5... One very
>important lesson I learned as soon as I had a counter on my winder was that I
>couldn't count! By the time I had 70 or 80 cranks in, I was off by 1 or 2. The
>problem persists even today.
>
>Ray
>
>--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Phedon Tsiknopoulos <phedon21t_at_...>
>wrote:
>>
>> Most of those counters have 3 digits. I have the mini-cassette type., also 3
>> digits, and it counts input since it only goes to 999 turns.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: ray_harlan <rbharlan_at_...>
>> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Tue, March 15, 2011 6:38:22 AM
>> Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Winders
>>
>> Â
>> You can go with either pitch. There's not a lot of difference. Aluminum gears
>> will require some lube. But you would like a very free winder, so a Ministick
>> motor will unwind almost all the way by itself. Lube will add viscous drag and
>
>> slow it dowm. Using plastic spur gears and brass or stainless pinions will work
>>
>> better. 60 tooth spur gears and 12 and 15 tooth pinions will get 20:1. You can
>
>> get machined Delrin gears from places like PIC and Berg, here in the US. There
>
>> must be comparable places in EU.
>>
>>
>> I don't think the adjustable plate idea is very practival. How do you adjust
>> both sides the same? It would be easier to make a new pair of side plates. If
>> you Loctite the bearings in, you could get away with using a reamer to get the
>
>> final hole size. But the whole process should be: drill with undersize drill.
>> Use an undersize end mill (a regrind) to get hole location, better than a
>>drill.
>>
>> Use a .0005" oversize reamer to get final hole size. Do the two plates
>>together,
>>
>> of course. These can be held together with standoffs and put inside an
>> enclosure. This is what Bob Wilder did.
>>
>> I was going to build winders years ago, but never got going. The counters that
>>I
>>
>> liked were tiny mechanical counters from tape decks. They were cheap and
>> plentiful. They counted up and down with no fuss. Now, I can't find them
>> anywhere on the web. No one needs tape decks.
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Tapio Linkosalo
>> <tapio.linkosalo_at_> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Thanks, Ray and others, for a bunch of good comments and ideas to work
>> > on. My stack of questions is not, however, finished, but rather keeps
>> > stacking up....
>> >
>> > On 14.3.2011 20:00, ray_harlan wrote:
>> > > For ball bearings, a "suitably large hole" would have a tolerance on the
>> > > order of .0002", not something you get with a drill. The holes are
>> > > drilled undersize and then bored to size. You can increase this
>> > > tolerance a bit, if you Loctite the bearings in, instead of pressing
>> > > them. But anything over .001" could lead to sloppy gear mesh. As Art
>> > > points out, the most important thing is the center distance between two
>> > > gears. Too close and they bind; too far, and they get ratty. A 32 pitch
>> > > is pretty good for any indoor winding. Class of gears also is important,
>> > > but you don't need super gears. Most nylon or Delrin gears are molded
>> > > and fit in one of the lower classes. They still should be fine and are
>> > > what A2Z uses. Phenolic gears are machined and are quiet like nylon.
>> >
>> > I was considering aluminium gears from ServoCity for the strength, but
>> > maybe plastics would be strong enough? Is deldrin/acetal molded or
>> > machined? From the price I gather molded?
>> >
>> > Does gear size affect the gear friction? Is 32 pitch coarser (to rotate)
>> > than 48 pitch? What to go for?
>> >
>> > > If you make a winder, it would be best to mock it up using a milling
>> > > machine with a digital readout and fiddling with center distances until
>> > > the mesh feels good (just outside of binding). Two plates on standoffs
>> > > works fine.
>> >
>> > Another idea: attach the gears to smaller plates that attach to the main
>> > body with a couple of screws in oval holes. This way you can loosen the
>> > screws, slide the axis until gear distance is good, then tighten the
>> > screws and secure with loctite. If there is a sub-plate in between the
>> > main plates (as in Arts' winders) the input and output axes can be in
>> > line with each other, and if the gears for the first and second phase
>> > are similar (same number of teeth, then it will suffice to move the
>> > intermediate axis....
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -Tapio-
>> >
>>
>
>
Received on Wed Mar 16 2011 - 20:37:59 CET
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:46 CET