Yeah that's what I meant by "underhand" for the second knot. I rarely change the direction for the second knot. Sometimes on big LPP motors the first knot won't hold unless you reverse the second one.
I fly a little rubber occasionally!
----- Original Message -----
From: themaxout_at_aol.com
To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] knotting rubber
I spoke to "master" and he said that one overhand knot RH and then one overhand knot LH using what you describe and he has never had a not come undone. Plus...you are a glider guy...(!)
grasshopper.
Rick Pangell
Editor of "The Max-Out" Newsletter of
The Magnificent Mountain Men FF Club of Colorado
In a message dated 3/5/2011 11:14:13 A.M. Mountain Standard Time, wdgowen_at_gmail.com writes:
I never had much success with this idea - probably has something to do with saliva quality. I lube lightly before tying then use two overhand knots.
Old story but maybe some haven't heard it yet:
To make an exact weight motor, cut strip to desired width but a little over the desired weight, lube, put on o-rings, put on scale, cut off strip to exact desired weight. Tie one overhand knot as close as possible to end of motor, then spread the strands to move the knot as close as possible to the end of the motor. Tie a second overhand (or underhand) knot inside of the first one and spread the strands to move the second knot tight against the first one.
This procedure looks brutal but I've never heard of anyone having problems from it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Dennis
To: construction Indoor
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 9:02 AM
Subject: [Indoor_Construction] knotting rubber
Just wondering, when I show the students know tying, I have them soak
the knot with saliva before pulling it tight and lubing, rarely get a
break at the knot and it really pulls up tight. Anyone here do this ?
wombat
Received on Sat Mar 05 2011 - 14:33:36 CET
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:46 CET