Tapio, I use a contact cement that I buy from Ace hardware. I dump some
in a bottle, thin it (using acetone or naptha - I can't remember which)
then brush it on the framework and let it dry. Then I drop the wing on
the frame and brush a little bit of the thinner around the structure.
This reactivates the contact cement and does a nice job, though my
covering jobs don't look anywhere near as nice as yours do <Grin>. I
have my glue containers marked for which solvent to use so I could check.
LeRoy Cordes YOLO
Chicago, Illinois
AMA 16974
In God We Trust
On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:24:04 +0300 Tapio Linkosalo
<tapio.linkosalo_at_iki.fi> writes:
>
> This must have been discussed before, but don't recall any final
> answers. These questions arised from the final prop building session
>
> before the trip to Belgrade.
>
> I had used thinned contact glue, brushed on the structures, before.
> That
> turned out to be a disaster, as the thin glue soaked into the balsa
>
> spars, gained lots of weight, but did not tack. No good. So for the
>
> final session I ended up spraying the glue (M77) from the can. It
> worked
> otherwise ok, but my old can has started developing "threads" of
> glue
> instead of producing a fine mist. Luckily there were not too many of
>
> these, but I can see the problem developing worse, which would mean
> that
> spraying the glue will not work in the future (from that can, at
> least. So:
>
> - what makes this "threading" problem? Is my nozzle cloaked (I try
> to
> clean it spraying it empty inverted, but maybe that is not enough,
> maybe
> I need to use some solvent to clean the nozzle), or does the solvent
> in
> the glue evaporate over the time, making it stickier to spray?
>
> - would it be possible to spray the glue out into a can, add some
> solvent and then use an airbrush to apply the glue? Or would
> cleaning
> the brush be too much work, and thus the whole idea stupid?
>
> - Is there a way to spread the glue with brush without adding too
> much
> weight? Most of all, if I make a cradle for the film, drop the frame
>
> "dry" onto the film, and then seep some glue between the film and
> the
> frame, would the capillar pull then keep the glue between the film
> and
> the frame, and stop it from soaking into the wood?
>
> ... time to start building new props, and maybe consider some new
> wings
> and tails, too. Have to try out that romanian film, that was claimed
> to
> be as thick/thin as SO-film, but seemed to show more reddish colors
>
> here SO tends to be greener), so maybe that film is slightly
> thinner?
>
>
>
> -Tapio-
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
LeRoy Cordes YOLO
Chicago, Illinois
AMA 16974
In God We Trust
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Received on Mon Aug 30 2010 - 10:55:57 CEST