Bill,
Thanks...here's the photo I took of your glider box..
Rick Pangell
Editor of "The Max-Out" Newsletter of
The Magnificent Mountain Men FF Club of Colorado
In a message dated 3/10/2010 11:38:56 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
wdgowen_at_gmail.com writes:
Rick
I would never put water on wood flaps. I don't think there is any way to
keep them from warping. Even if you DON'T put water on them they will
probably warp. This is my main reason for trying foam flaps.
For dry forming wood flaps you just squeeze them between thumb and finger
and gently stretch in the direction you want them to go. As Stan says it may
take minutes or hours.
Really thin wood flaps seem to expand after being attached to the more
rigid front part of the wing. This produces bulges in the flaps that make it
impossible to get the shape you want. When this happens I usually wind up
cutting tiny chordwise slivers out of the flaps so they can be straightened
out and then glue the edges back together with Duco.
For my new foam flaps I used some old Durobatics foam that came curved. I
understand the newer stuff is flat. At any rate after you sand the stuff
down to flap thickness you can manipulate it pretty much the same way as
balsa. I used 5 minute epoxy to attach.
It takes a good bit of flap camber to get a good sink rate. I don't know
how much is the right amount but I usually add camber as the day goes on and
this usually helps.
There is a heck of a lot going on with flaps in the flight of low ceiling
gliders. After a number of years of flying them I still don't understand
much of it. Here are some of the questions:
1. How does flap stiffness affect incidence during the climb?
2. WHEN do the flaps affect incidence during the climb?
3. What's the best way to set initial incidence?
4. How does flap camber affect incidence during the climb and then during
the glide?
5. Connected to all the above: if you trim for a bunt (I normally do) then
how does flap stiffness and camber affect when the bunt happens, how much
bunt do you get and when does it stop?
6. Can differential flap deflection or stiffness be used to get a better
transition?
And on and on.........
----- Original Message -----
From: _themaxout_at_aol.com_ (mailto:themaxout_at_aol.com)
To: _Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com_
(mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Std. Catapult glider
As long as we are talking about flaps on gliders....what is the preferred
method to getting the curvature on them? On the std CLG I built for the
PPCC I wet formed them...they were balsa, what is the method if using Depron?
Rick Pangell
Editor of "The Max-Out" Newsletter of
The Magnificent Mountain Men FF Club of Colorado
In a message dated 3/10/2010 9:47:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
wdgowen_at_gmail.In a messag
I've done it both ways and have had good and bad gliders built both ways.
I think Stan's Slow Poker started this method. Drela's Upstart has full
span flaps. Two of the talking points for the rigid tip are that it produces
washout in the tips (relative to the rest of the wing) and helps control
vibration of the flaps.
----- Original Message -----
From: _Warthodson_at_aol.War_ (mailto:Warthodson_at_aol.com)
To: _Indoor_ConstructionIndoor_ConstrInd_
(mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com) ; _freeflightml_at_freeflightmlfre_
(mailto:freeflightml_at_yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 9:07 AM
Subject: [Indoor_Constructio [Indoor_Constructio<WBR>n]
<WBR>All the category 1 flapper type standard catapult glider drawings I
have show the training edge flapper free to flex except at the wing tip
where it is attached to a ridged wing tip section. This would seem to limit the
ability of the flapper to flex. I am curious why this is? Wouldn't it be
better to not restrain the flap at all?
Gary
- application/x-ygp-stripped attachment: stored
Received on Wed Mar 10 2010 - 12:16:00 CET