It would help to have some key information:
Length of your motorstick from the prop hanger to the rear hook
The cross sectional area of rubber that you are flying on
The grain orientation of the balsa wood that you have built the motorstick
from
The cross sectional dimensions of the motor stick
Keep the following in mind:
The motor stick will bow when loaded with a fully wound motor. You should
expect this to happen and use it to your advantage.
You can build in some slight upthrust to counter-act the down thrust from
the bowing motorstick.
You can also use balsa to make a tension bracing for the top of the MS.
Balsa is strong in tension and does not stretch.
With more information I think we can help you out.
On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 12:25 PM, Sameer Tiwari <deevana_2001_at_yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Having built several of the indoor models over the last year. I kept
> bumping into the issues of a the plane taking a nose dive, whenever I put
> turns in the rubber exceeding a 1000.
>
> I am sure the folks on this forum know what I am talking about...
>
> The fusestick warps/buckles under the stress and causes an unwanted
> upthrust from the prop, causing the plane to nose dive. Once you pick it up
> and let it run a few seconds, it will fly beautifully once again giving
> close to 2 mins of flight time.
>
> But, I want to stretch more to exceed 3mins, and stuck on the fusestick
> design, it has to be balsa - no boron/fiber/tubes etc.
>
> BTW, I did try a box design with two 1/32 X 1/2 for a pair of sides and
> 1/16 X 1/16 for the other, and it was equally weak as a solid 1/4 X 1/2.
>
> Any ideas?
> Thanks
>
>
>
--
BEN SAKS
Project Designer
bsaks_at_wetdesign.com
WET
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Sun Valley, CA 91352
T 818.769.6200
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Received on Mon Jun 08 2009 - 13:13:58 CEST