Ladies and gentlemen. With the help of you all, I have managed to
increase my times from 2:48 in a 20ft ceiling to 3:18 as of today. I
used the practice where you wind to 90% motor capacity and then back
off to your predetermined torque setting, and Presto!! I actually
still do not have a torque meter but I just counted backward from the
winds I had put it. I did notice that the model would flip due to a
high climb rate in the early stages. I may need to go down in rubber
size. I am only putting on 1280 turns and it is flipping over. I am
sure I should be aiming for higher turns than that.
regards
Matthew
--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, matthew taudevin
<mattnsim_at_...> wrote:
>
> thanks for the advice leroy. sorry to hear about your ministick
getting stuck in the rafters. I live in Brisbane which is about 2 1/2
hours away from toowoomba.
>
> regards
> Matthew
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: LeRoy C Cordes <lcordes_at_...>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, 22 December, 2008 3:18:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Optimizing a ministick
>
>
> Matthew, there is no need for the nylon bearing at the rear (though
it won't hurt to have it there) as the rear end is fixed and the
torque is measured by the twisting of the wire. Again my only
caution is to make sure the joints (if any) are mechanically sound.
It won't matter too much for the ministick size motors but if you get
to winding larger material and a joint comes loose it could really
smart when the whole assembly comes out and slaps your hand. I
observed this happening to one of my flying buddies.
> A caution for your Brisbane site (particularly if you're plane is
scrubbing the ceiling as we do at most of our sites) - You might
think that you should wind much more than at your local site but when
I first went down to the University of Illinois Armory with a 100
foot ceiling I was told that I should start by winding the same as
for our 40 foot site and they were right, the plane got right up to
the top right away - then later, by winding too much, I managed to
leave my newer MiniStick in the steel rafters - oh well, it happens.
>
> Where are you located in Australia ? I've got a Sister-in-Law in
Toowoomba.
>
> LeRoy Cordes
> AMA 16974
> Chicago, IL
> In God We Trust
>
>
> On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 14:21:34 -0800 (PST) matthew taudevin
<mattnsim_at_...> writes:
> thanks leroy, I like the simpler one with the metal bracket as the
base. Could I use a nylon thrust bearing at the back as well as the
front of the bracket? My brain goes into overload when i read stuff
that I do not fully understand.
>
> I have access to lots of music wire (I am a guitar teacher) so
most of the construction should be easy enough. I just do not have a
soldering iron.
>
> Can I just say that all your help so far has been fantastic.
Furthermore, If i can acheive 5 minutes flying with my ministick I
will win this years ministick comp, hands down. As far as I know none
of the guys get 5 minutes flying time. If I could get 5 minutes in
the hall accross the road (which is tiny) The gym that we fly in at
brisbane is 3 times as high and I should be able to do over and above
5 minutes!!! that would be so satisfying. I will do some testing
today. stay tuned.
>
> regards
> Matthew
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: LeRoy C Cordes <lcordes_at_...>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, 21 December, 2008 4:15:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Optimizing a ministick
>
>
> Matthew there are plans around but here's a copy of a simple one
and one more complex. I like the more complex one (by Cezar Banks)
but the specified wire is too heavy for ministick (I need to make
another with a thinner torque wire). Make sure that any wire joints
don't rely on just solder but use a positive connection.
>
> LeRoy Cordes
> AMA 16974
> Chicago, IL
> In God We Trust
>
>
> On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 02:53:22 -0800 (PST) matthew taudevin
<mattnsim_at_...> writes:
> there's a cheetah in the tank?? what does that mean? I never even
considered winding to 90% capacity and then backing off to the torque
required for a no touch ceiling run.
>
> should i glue the front wing post to the fuse and leave the rear
post for trim adjustments?
>
> When you say WASH what does that mean? How do I get rid of it?
>
> and .027 rubber that is .68mm YIKES!! I have some .8mm that I might
try first to see what happens.
>
> How do i get a torque meter? Can I make one?
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bruce McCrory <hbm55_at_...>
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, 20 December, 2008 4:48:07 PM
> Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Optimizing a ministick
>
> I don't see images, but the Utube video was enlightening. Prop
looked
> good, and your comments mean there's a cheetah in the tank.
>
> Definitely wound to "no touch" torque. You want a torque meter, to
> record the no-touch force; then wind to 90% turns and back off to
> the "no touch" power. It will extend the flight time, giving you
more
> turns, longer cruise torque.
>
> .039" (1mm) is going to be too powerful for the weight adjusted
> model. It's a good size for A6, however.
>
> Others on the list might see more than me. My thoughts:
>
> The wash can be reduced. I don't use any, relying on the MS to
twist
> it in during launch torque and climb. Fixed wash equals cruise
> hassles and drag. This is a good opportunity to shave down the mass
> of the motor stick. Remove smidges of incidence - the bobbing can
be
> that, or the high wash angles.
>
> MS should be about .08 - .10 grams. Mine are .07(-) and hard wood,
> 7# - 8#. Thinner sections twist better. Put about 5-7 degrees tilt
in
> the stab - drop right side. Straighten the wing spars - no wash.
Get
> some .023"-.027" rubber, same 11" length and wind it to 90% of
break
> turns to test full model duration (and endurance). .027" is
> competition size for your lower ceiling. Start grinding down the
MS.
> When the weight gets down close and the wound rubber doesn't break
> the stick, but the stab levels out with the wing spar line, you are
> close. The MS will automatically twist wash-in into the left wing
> panel. It's ready for fine tuning in the field house.
>
> If you can beat on the ceiling, test at full torque. A half, or
third
> motor might help at this stage. The idea is to file down more wood
> section on the sides near the front wing post and increase the
launch
> wash slightly. I've never done anything with the stick behind the
> posts but to reduce weight. MHO, the short moments counteract any
> advantage to moving the thrust line, like in EZB. Mini-stick seems
to
> like steady, straight booms.
>
> This is fun homework.
>
> Bruce in Seattle
>
>
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, matthew taudevin
> <mattnsim_at_> wrote:
> >
> > thanks bruce for the info.
> >
> > My props have helical twist.
> >
> > rubber is 11" loop of 1mm square and weighs .5grams
> >
> > The model weighs .6grams without rubber so all up weight with
> existing motor is 1.1grams. A little heavy but it is my first
> ministick. i may be able to take some weight off with some light
> sanding of the fuselage.
> >
> > ceiling is normal pointed variety and is about 20 feet high. here
> is video you will see the obstructions that I mean.
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wzy7v0funk
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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>
>
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>
> LeRoy Cordes
> AMA 16974
> Chicago, IL
> In God We Trust
>
> ________________________________
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Take a look.
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>
> LeRoy Cordes
> AMA 16974
> Chicago, IL
> In God We Trust
>
>
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Received on Sat Dec 27 2008 - 00:54:45 CET