Re: Re: A-6 rules change

From: Marty Sasaki <marty.sasaki_at_gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 13:03:49 -0500

Why have any dimensional restrictions (aside from the A-6 stuff)? Increase
the weight to maybe 2 grams. This will allow using hobby shop wood (with a
little searching). The minimum weight makes the wood sizes easy to handle.

Maybe a maximum wingspan would help to make designs easier to build?

Marty Sasaki

On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 12:45 PM, jeffrey.hood <jhood_at_hmcon.com> wrote:

> I'm going to jump in here, since I jumped in on the discussion of A-6
> rules years ago... I have always found that in coming to a consensus
> to an issue, all parties have to at least agree on the primary
> objective... And I think that it is universally agreed that the Prime
> Objective for A-6 was for it to be a beginner's class... So the rest
> will follow from that point...
>
> First, a beginner's class should have dimensions and structure that
> will allow a new indoor participant to progress without too much
> difficulty... the original A-6 "rules" that were proposed decades ago
> by Mather seemed to have held the test of time, and I don't think that
> the dimensional rules should be modified...
>
> However, the size of the required strips for construction -should- be
> modified, in my opinion... I cut my own wood, and have dozens of 4#
> blocks sitting around... So I can cut 4# wood for an A-6 and have
> what I need... However, a "beginner", (who is what we are
> targeting...) would have to buy expensive indoor sheets to get to
> weight since the limits are for 1/16" square structure wood... I
> would rather see a limit of 1/32", if any, for all components, which
> means that you could go to almost any hobby shop and get a decent
> sheet of 1/32" or 1/20" and build from that... or surely you could
> order a few sheets from National Balsa in contest grade and get one
> that would be good... This change would make it easier to find decent
> wood for the class, and really what is the difference (in handling)
> between a 1/16" square spar and a 1/20 x 1/16" spar of heavier
> wood...? Is one "harder" to handle for a beginner...? I really don't
> think so...
>
> Also, I would (for the same reasons...) be in favor of allowing film
> for covering... You could then have a heavier structure, which makes
> it more durable (good for beginners...) and film in my opinion is no
> harder to handle than condenser paper... if not easier... I have
> worked with a few "newbie" indoor fliers, that have built ministicks
> and SO with film, and like Bill, haven't seen any major obstructions
> on the use of film...
>
> Those two changes would make it easier and more affordable for someone
> to build and fly in this event, and like I said earlier, isn't that
> the purpose, if this is -really- a "beginner's" event...?
>
> I also don't think that these changes would make a bit of difference
> for the "expert" fliers in the event... Like mentioned in other
> posts, the biggest problem is with motor bunching, at least from my
> experience and watching the winners at USIC...
>
> My few cents worth... Curious to see if anyone else agrees...
>
> JH
>



























































-- 
Marty Sasaki
Arlington, MA, USA
http://www.martys-simple-things.com/
marty.sasaki_at_gmail.com
Received on Sat Nov 22 2008 - 10:03:54 CET

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