Re: now get it done without boron

From: Mark <f1diddler_at_yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 19:39:23 -0000

--- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "gertjanvanwezel"
<gertjanvanwezel_at_...> wrote:
>
> oke thats a lot of no boron stuff lot of people don't like to work
with it.

Although some of us don't like to work with it, notice that we still
highly recommend boron. Parts stay more stable with boron, if
handled gently.


> So now i ask please tell me some other stronger making stuff so you
can
> make a good F1D.

You merely increase wood sizes and/or weights. I already mentioned
wing spar size, such as .096" x.033", give or take several .001",
depending on wood density and quality. Wing posts can function
without boron at, say .040 X .068", but heavier wood, such as 7 or
8lb lb. (I used to use similar.) Motorsticks are also a balancing
act depending on wood quality and density. I've had very functional
non boron *low ceiling* motorsticks using light .015" C, but also
with heavier .013" C (up to 5.2 lb) My non boroned sticks aren't so
good for high ceiling, due to extra downthrust from stick bow hanging
around longer.

I haven't tried a tailboom yet without boron.

> I want to make one for the first time so please send me good
drawing
> (without boron)

Did you check our FILES section? Plans are scattered around the web,
including on Indoornews.com (Eidelweiss, or Eidelon, or something
like that :^) Plenty weights and sizes listed there. Back issues of
INAV available also--some online.

> And how can tell me how much time difference it makes 0,1 grammes
more
> weight on the plane (on the motorstick for example)

With decent indoor wood, a non-boroned F1d need not be overweight at
all, IMO. But I don't know the probable clock penalty if .1g over.
Some indoorists recommend building everything 10% overweight on
FIRST model until handling and trimming experience is gained.
Mark F1diddler
Received on Fri Oct 24 2008 - 12:39:27 CEST