Gary:
There are two plasticizers that I know are available. They are Tricresyl Phosphate (TCP) and Dioctyl Pthalate (DOP). They are available from Tim Goldstein's web store at
http://www.f1d.biz. For the specific product, go to
http://www.indoorduration.com/IndoorDurationPlasticizer.asp?source=Order.
The recommendation is to add about four drops of each to an ounce of Ambroid, Sigment, or other cellulose glue.
Even though commonly available nitrate dope (Sig or Brodak) shrinks less than butyrate dope, nitrate dope does shrink. Adding plasticizer to those nitrate dopes will almost, but not quite, eliminate the risk of shrinking and resultant warps when covering light structures with tissue.
If you go to Tim Goldstein's website, take some time to browse through the entire Indoor Duration site. There is a whole lot of very useful information there.
Peter Hess
Canton,CT
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry Hills
To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 7:00 PM
Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: Glue For Indoor Models
Hi Peter:
What do you use for plasticsizer and how much do you add to
the glue?
Thanks
Garry
-- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, "Peter Hess" <hesspl@...>
wrote:
>
> Hey Garry in the Ct Hills:
>
> For joints that I will not want to adjust - - ribs-to-spars,
longerons and verticals in fuselages - - I use Pica Gluit (no longer
available) thinned 50/50 with water. Most of these joints are
pre-glued or double glued, especially where butt ends are involved.
I don't use cellulose glues, even thinned and plasticized, for
rib-to-spar joints because even the slightest shrinkage can induce
warps. Other apparently don't have this problem, but I have thrown
away too many EZB stabs to take the risk. I don't have the problem
using Gluit. Plain old Elmers white glue or many aliphatic glues will
work as well.
>
> For joints that I think I might have to adjust for trimming
purposes, especially on MiniStiks, EZBs, and LPPs, I use Ambroid or
Sigment thinned at least 50/50 with acetone and plasticized. Joints
that I probably will or might want to adjust include: Thrust
bearing-to-motor stick); wing post sockets (to adjust CG);
wing-to-wing posts (to adjust wash-in/wash-out); boom-to-motor stick
(to adjust stab incidence and/or fin offset); and stab-to-boom (to
adjust stab tilt and/or turn).
>
> Advice from others will almost certainly differ, but this is what
works for me. You might like a different tune.
>
> Peter Hess in the Connecticut Hills
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: gcostanza66
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 6:44 PM
> Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Glue For Indoor Models
>
>
> Hi:
>
> Just wanted to ask what is the favored glue for building indoor
> models? I've been out of indoor modeling for about 10 years and the
> only glues I know in R/C are the CA glues which I know are way to
> heavy for indoor models.
>
> Thanks
>
> Garry in CT
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Received on Mon Jun 11 2007 - 16:46:04 CEST