Gary,
Yes, half a tube length wise. I think Walt made a "V" cradle to hold
the tubes then drew a line and cut them one side per cut. For a No-
Cal with only one motor stick, I would suggest using the full rolled
tube. The fancy version would be to notch the tube to nest into the
various vertical balsa strips.
The notching tool is easy. For 1/16 strips, start with a strip of
1/16 x 1/16 basswood and glue a piece of 400 grit sandpaper to a
1/16 edge. Strip off the excess sandpaper and sand off the two
sides. Then glue a piece of 1/16 x 1/4 basswood strip,
perpindicular, so that the tool's end view is a short "T". Now when
you use the tool, sand the notch until the T-top touches the tube's
surface. This way you penetrate only as deep as the 1/16 vertical
and the motorstick tube does not break the geometric plane (or bulge
the tissue surface).
When the structure is finished, there will be more surface area
attaching the tube to the fuselage structure.
Walt was fastidious. He felt that the hook and prop bearing should
be on the tissue side to further reduce the torsional effects. I
never established the reason but can attest to how Walt's No-Cals
(singles or twins) never deviated the ordit diameter during the
flight and they all flew as if flying within a glass cylinder.
Tom Sanders
In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com, Warthodson@... wrote:
>
>
> Tom,
> I am having trouble picturing rolled tubes, split down the center
line. Does
> this mean he used 1/2 of a rolled tube? Did he sheet in the open
side of the
> tube, resulting in a "D"?
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 4/20/2007 9:19:01 AM Central Daylight Time,
> parkreation_at_... writes:
>
> One of the famous features was the use of
> rolled tube motorsticks,rolled tube motorsticks,<WBR>split down the
> with zero torsional problems.
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Received on Sat Apr 21 2007 - 14:50:36 CEST