Thank you for your time, well I use a commercial gauge from
freedomflightmodels. What do you suggest I do about some very minor slits?
Thank you again.
On 2/20/07, Bill Gowen <b.gowen_at_earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> The prop shaft is the wire that goes through the bearing and attaches to
> the rubber motor. What kind of pitch gauge do you have? If it's a commercial
> gauge it should have markings for setting different pitches. The pitch is
> the theoretical distance that the prop would travel in one revolution. You
> determine the pitch by measuring the blade angle at a specific distance from
> the center of the prop. If the blade is set at an angle of about 39 degrees
> measured 2" from the center of the prop then that corresponds to a pitch of
> 10. If your 18.5cm prop blades are set at an angle of 23 degrees at the
> tips then that also is a pitch of 10.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jimranor7
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com<Indoor_Construction%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 12:26 AM
> Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: SO Wright Stuff
>
> Oh, I tried to change the prop pitch by gripping the center hub and
> twisting the prop spar. Thank you. I have a pitch gage and I will
> change it like you said. Could you explain me the pitch around 10
> thing? And my plane has some rips on the film surface, should I put
> some very small pieces of scotch tape on them? Could you define the
> prop shaft? sorry.
> --- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com<Indoor_Construction%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Bill Gowen"
> <b.gowen_at_...> wrote:
> >
> > In the files section there is a movie clip showing changing the
> pitch of an Ikara prop with heat. You need a pitch gauge to use this
> method. The blue tape shown on the prop blade is there to keep the
> heat from damaging the blade.
> >
> > The more usual way to do it is by gripping one side of the prop
> spar with 2 pairs of pliers and twisting the spar. You still need a
> pitch gauge to have any idea what your results are. If you go a
> little overboard with this method the prop spar will break. You can
> usually fix them with thick CA.
> >
> > I would suggest starting with a pitch of around 10 which would be
> 39 degrees measured at 2" from the prop shaft. If you're using a
> large Ikara cut down to 18.5cm your pitch is probably a lot higher
> than this.
> >
> > If you absolutely can't get a pitch gauge then you can do this:
> > Twist the prop spar on one side of the hub a little bit to get that
> blade to a lower pitch. Hold the prop shaft between your fingers and
> find a line on the floor. Move your hand and rotate the prop until
> you can line up the tip of the prop blade with the line on the floor.
> Then - without moving your hand! - rotate the prop 180 degrees and
> compare the angle of the second prop blade with the line on the
> floor. Twist the spar for the second blade until both blades will
> line up with your line on the floor. This is a very crude way to
> adjust a prop but it can work if you're careful.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: jimranor7
> > To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com<Indoor_Construction%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 11:31 PM
> > Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Re: SO Wright Stuff
> >
> >
> > Actually, thank you for the reply, (I'm sorry)I only dared to get
> it
> > up to 110-120 turns with the 15:1 ratio so like 2000 turns (sorry
> i
> > said 200 turns) in total. Could you tell me a good way to change
> a
> > propeller pitch?
> > -- In Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com<Indoor_Construction%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Samiur Rahman"
> > <groundhawk2006_at_> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm pretty sure your pitch is too high, or you are using too
> thin
> > rubber. I
> > > suggest buying fatter rubber if you think you can't change the
> > pitch. I
> > > assume that the diameter for your propeller is 18.5cm, I
> suggest
> > going at
> > > 35-37 degrees for the pitch, trying using a pitch gauge. if
> you're
> > able to
> > > get close to 200 turns, you're definitely using REALLY thin
> > > rubber.....you're probably using 1/16 rubber. Try using 0.085,
> > which should
> > > go upto 150.
> > >
> > > On 2/20/07, jimranor7 <lejinuni_at_> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi, I am a high school student. I have a Harlan Cruiser 67
> and
> > I cannot
> > > > get it to climb up to the ceiling. I hear people talking
> about
> > hitting
> > > > the ceiling and falling, but my plane will only go up like 6
> or 7
> > feet
> > > > and start descending. The width of the rubber band is
> whatever
> > came in
> > > > the kit, and the pitch is as it is for I don't know how to
> change
> > it
> > > > without breaking it (I broke 2 of my extras so far). I change
> the
> > pitch
> > > > by twisting it in the center, but it never works. The plane
> has a
> > > > positive angle of attack. I wish I can see it go up and hit
> the
> > ceiling
> > > > because the plane isn't that impressive when it isn't flying
> > high. The
> > > > propeller is not spinning fast enough, i think that is why.
> What
> > shocks
> > > > me the most is that I put more 100 turns with the 15:1 winder
> and
> > close
> > > > to 200, and it went only 6, 7 feet. The best time I had was
> 34
> > seconds.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Received on Tue Feb 20 2007 - 22:07:04 CET
This archive was generated by Yannick on Sat Dec 14 2019 - 19:13:44 CET