Bruce
Tedious it may be but you won't get any bad components.
For prop spars there will be slight differences in stiffness; I sand the
stiffer piece to compensate.
All my tested wood is graded into density ranges ie<4 lb, 4-4.3 lb, 4.3-4.5
lb, 4.5-5 lb, 5-5.5 lb and >5.5 lb. Helps choice for different components eg
for wing tips I find that about 4.7 lb is as good as anything.
It all depends on the classes you fly.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce McCrory" <kbdmccrory_at_comcast.net>
To: <Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 6:03 AM
Subject: RE: [Indoor_Construction] Seriously... What to do with wood?
> Thanks, for your description, Bob. This most recent go-round is 60 edge
> tests, about 15 sheets so far. It's been slow and tedious. I envy your
> patience. When I re-establish a consistent testing method I will simply
> have
> to be as disciplined as you about recording and storage. If thin, indoor
> specialty wood can stay in one box, it should work for spar wood. A second
> problem has been cutting several pieces for matched pairs; so far, tape
> tags
> on the bundle have worked.
>
>
>
> As an alternate, I may have a cyber-garage sale.
>
>
>
> Bruce in Seattle
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> RLBailey_at_care4free.net
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 3:58 AM
> To: Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Indoor_Construction] Seriously... What to do with wood?
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> I mark on each piece which is about 1/4" by 3/8" which is individually
> tested the Youngs Modulus and density ie the results of the test.
>
> To make into spars, firstly I halve the thickness with a purpose built
> stripper ( 2 pieces of wood and a razor blade on a flat base to get 2
> pieces
>
> for the price of one. The second piece is also marked up; unless this ID
> is
> there, the piece is not validated for use (usual aerospace quality
> control).
>
> To make the spar, the piece is shaped to the section as seen from the
> front
> or back and then glued with thick cyano to a backing piece of 1/16" or
> thicker to act as a handle. The piece is then run through the regular wood
> stripper eg Jim Jones with part of a double edge razor blade as I pointed
> out in the group not long ago. Wastage of valuable material in minimal.
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce McCrory" <bruce_at_kbdmcc.net>
> To: <Indoor_Construction_at_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 3:19 AM
> Subject: [Indoor_Construction] Seriously... What to do with wood?
>
>
>> OK... I've gone through this a number of times and still don't have a
>> decent system for storing, finding, and keeping track of my spar wood.
>> The last catalog of strips was donated to youth programs. I got
>> requests for #175, #934, etc. I got tired of record keeping after about
>> 230-something so was able to identify the lower number strip and
>> eventually found the sheet.
>>
>> How do you chop up, mark, save, and really most importantly, cut spars
>> from little scraps of high modulus wood?
>>
>> I can build custom knives for reducing any thickness. I just need what
>> the Harlan can cut for the final spar. That's about a quarter inch wide
>> sheet and max. 1/8 inch thickness. Lots of waste if the stock is 1/2
>> inch wide.
>>
>> Desperate in Seattle,
>> Bruce
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
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Received on Fri Feb 10 2006 - 04:05:12 CET